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GT3 Beginner's League














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Just as in GT1 and GT2, Weight to Power ratios can be dialed in for GT3. So what is a weight to power ratio and why bother using it?

It is basically a number derived from taking your car's weight and dividing it by its track-tested horsepower (not the dealer's quoted horsepower). In other words, use the hp rating from the track (when you're setting up your car's power and parts). I use this system to make my game more challenging...to put me IN the game and in traffic. Otherwise, it would be easy to add too much power to any car in GT3 and you'd wind up never challenging yourself.

Here's how it works.

1). Take your car's weight, and divide it by the number found in the race you're about to qualify for.

2). Each race will have a 3 or 4 digit number listed (6.36 for instance).

3). So if you have a 3,000 pound car, take 3000 6.36 = 471. That last number (471) is the horspower your car should be near equal to. Your final horsepower can be slightly below or slightly above the number on your calculator. Now tune your car with whatever parts necessary to get as close to this number as possible.

I'll often give info on which tires and suspension to use. Many times, it is possbile in GT3 to use tires inappropriate for the race you're about to tackle, and making things too easy. 

You can also use whatever clutch, flywheel, brake system & parts, limited-slip device, etc. tho this is somewhat of a judgement call on your part. I tend to use these lesser parts to "fine-tune" my racing experience. If I qualify a half-second quicker than the 2nd place car, I'll switch my twin clutch for a single one, maybe use a heavier flywheel...

Most of this site is based on the English system of measurement (pounds, miles per hour, etc). For metric gamers, go to www.onlineconversion.com to convert anything to metric.


The main difference that GT3 has from GT2 is they got rid of the horsepower limits (most of which were bogus anyways), but they also made sure that the type of car entered into many races is now restricted. In other words, now you can only enter something from the 1980's into the 80's Car Cup. They even LIST the cars you can enter into certain races in case there's any confusion.

What's new for GT3? Well you can qualify in races again, tho this is not as strict as GT1 qualifying, nor do you win any money for pole position. GT3 lets you run as many laps as you want...it's kind of a mix of qualifying and practice at the same time. The really cool thing is that if your car qualifies too fast (if you're 2 seconds faster than the 2nd place car or something) you can go detune your engine or suspension, and /or you can remove drivetrain parts or tires for a more challenging race.

This works most of the time. Sometimes during the actual race, the AI drives alot harder or gets better acceleration off the start, making me wish I HADN'T detuned! Remember that during qualifying, starting acceleration isn't quite a factor since you're already rolling.`

Finally, in some cases, you'll find there are several weight to power (W2P) ratios for the same race. This is because I've found that heavier cars can wind up having too much of a power advantage with my system. By using logarithms, this can be fixed. Here's an example of how to use them (and where i'll lose all my non-math oriented fans).

Say you've got a Chrysler PT Cruiser with Stage 1 weight reduction and are entering it into the Clubman Cup. It weighs 2,598 pounds. I currently have a range of 2,000 to 2,800 pound cars that I've raced (everything from Truenos to Chrysler PT's, basically), so you can use logarithms to find out how much power the PT should have.

2,000 Pounds=11.43 P2P

2,800 Pounds=18.46 P2P

2,800-2,000 = 800 pounds

18.46-11.43 = a difference of 7.03 pound to power points.

7.03 800 = .00878 pounds per hp

The Chrysler is 598 pounds over the 2,000 minimum so...

598 x .00878 = 5.25 p2p over the minimum of 11.43

5.25 + 11.43 = final P2P of 16.68

so...2,598 pounds 16.68 = @156 final horsepower...

...you should have about 156 horsepower to competitvely compete in the Clubman Cup. Get it?

 

Sunday Cup

You know what you have to do here. Just like GT1 and 2, the Sunday Cup was meant for absolute beginners. Even the name “Sunday Cup” suggests a slow, leisurely pace...like folks out for the proverbial sunday drive. You only win $1,000 per event so do whatever you can to get this nitemare over with. If you can't afford parts for this race don't worry, you probably won't need any unless you're driving a mini or a kei car!
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Clubman Cup

14.49 (2,000 lbs.) 138 hp

 18.46 (2,800 lbs.) 152 hp

These are a bit more difficult, but still pretty easy to win. I've given W2P ratios here not to limit cars, but to boost them. In other words, the ratios above are the absolute minimum you'll need to win, rather than the max power to limit yourself. If you're good at math, you can even figure out logarhythmically how to set up your car as outlined above.

Again, you're only winning crap money, so don't spend too much time here. Then again, racing a stock Miata LS against the MR2 at Deep Forest is some of the BEST, most tempting early gameplay you can try!
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FF Series

14.43 (1,600) 111 hp

14.66 (2,100) 143 hp

17.71 (2,800) Minimum hp=158 hp

Time for some understeering fun. The Star of this race is the VW Lupo ‘Cup Car’, which has a race modifyed body with fancy sponsorhip decals. Though this seems an unfair weight advantage and looks out of place, it also apppears the VW team dumped all their money into this body kit and didn't have funds for power cuz it is pretty slow. Still, you gotta watch for it. The driver has obviously spent alot of time at Deep Forest and drives this particular course well.

• Use stock tires & sports suspension.
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FR Series

Grand Valley

14.24 (2,000 lbs.) 197 hp

13.48 (2,900) 215 hp

 16.99 (3,230) min=170 hp

Special Stage Route 5

14.24 (2,000) 144 hp

 15.20 (2,900) 190 hp

16.99 (3,230) min=167 hp

Apricot Hill II

11.26 (2,000) 178 hp 

14.38 (2,900) 201 hp

 16.64 (3,230) 194 hp minimum


These races seem completely boring till you use my system; i guarantee you'll be battling the Nissan 240 SX type X for sure. It almost seems too real sometimes that after such a good race...you get paid $1500. Peanuts!

• Use sports tires and sports suspension. A limited slip differential (1-way, 1.5-way or 2-way) is highly recommended for some cars if they get squishy when trying to exit turns *cough* *Corolla* ahem, scuse me.

If you qualify too well, use stock tires. If still you're too fast try NOT qualifying so you're forced to deal with traffic!
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MR Series

Remember all those cool, low-powered, mid-engine cars in GT2? Well most of them are gone, now. What's left for those on a budget are a handful of MR2s. I didn't include a P2P ratio for these because they are incredibly EASY races, impossible to lose if you've got some experience. I won all 3 races in a stock MR2 G-limited with a close ratio box, then i did it again in a stock MR-S.
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4WD Challenge

Deep Forest=14.37

Midfield Rcwy=11.87 (Qual) 11.30 (Race)

SS Route 11=10.98


Again, very easy. I entered a stock Lancer Evo IV. and had no problem. You'll face moderate challenge from the Beetle RSi perhaps, if you skip qualifying. An Audi TT or Daihatsu Storia will need some help if you enter one, which is where the ratios above come into play.
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Lightweight Sports Car Cup

It's ironic they call this a ‘Sports Car’ cup...it is anything but.

This is a sad bunch of races when compared to the Lightweight Series of GT1 and Compact Car Series & Kei Cup of GT2. You can enter a grand total of just 3 models despite the fact that GT3 has an assortment of light cars.

I recommend just saving some bucks and using the Alto Works you win from the 4WD Challenge; slap a Stage 1 turbo in that sucker and you're good to go. At Super Speedway you'll get far ahead. You'll need to add a racing muffler to the turbo at Laguna, and a Mini could use about 101 hp. Anything additional is overkill, however.
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Stars & Stripes

All races P2P=12.38

Seattle & Super Speedway: min hp: 226

Laguna Seca: min hp=225

Seattle reversed: min hp=268

It may seem unfair that Vipers & Cobras are competing against you in the Beginner's League, but really these drivers are kinda wimpy. During hte replay, switch on the accel / brake meter and you can see that they never even use full throttle.

• Use sports tires & suspension unless you qualify too well, then you can switch to stock parts. At Seattle reversed, the AI is really aggressive and for some cars you may need racing slicks during hte race, but you should still qualify on sports.

Most of the cars that can be entered in this series can be driven totally stock with no qualifying. The PT Cruiser and Integra are 2 exceptions.
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Spiders & Roadsters

Deep Forest: 14.72

Test Course: TBA (+14.72)

Grand Valley II: TBA (+14.72)


These are incredibly easy for even an intermediate driver. Those of you able enuff to win the Miata from attaining all golds in the B-licenses can run this car entirely stock and steal all 3 races. Or you can just use the Miata you win from the Clubman...either way works.

• Use a sports suspension & stock tires.You will need a full-racing transmission at the Test Track if you use the Clubman Miata since it only has 5 stock gears and can't go as fast as the others here.
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80's Races

Special Stage Route 5: 14.24

Tokyo Route 246 reversed: 11.83 (2,000 lbs.), 12.49 (2,500)

Seattle Full Circuit reversed: 10.06 (2,000 lbs.) 11.41 (2,500)


Like gag me with a spoon. Features cars from the 80's only (duh). The star is an old Toyota Corolla SS racer with a very high redline that it uses along with its light weight to try & destroy you in the corners.

• Use a sports tires and suspension. Like totallaaaaay.
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NA Tune Series

Apricot Hill 15.28 Min=141 hp

Grand Valley Speedway14.84 Min =148 hp

Apricot Hill reversed 11.65 Min =184 hp

The nice thing about these races is you finally start earning some decent money. No, it's nowhere near GT2 cash (50 grand per win + prize car) but $5,000 is definately better than the $1000 to $2500 you've been winning thus far.

• Sports tires and suspension recommended, tho you can get away with using stock tires at those first 2 races in a lighter car.
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Turbo Cup

Midfield Raceway reversed = 11.46 (2,000 pounds) to 14.15 (2,900 pounds)

Test Course= 10.96 Min hp=190 (2,000) to 14.15 (2,900)

Special Stage Route 11= 8.72 (2,000) to 12.33 (2,900 pounds) to 13.0 (3,500)


The return of famous Special Stage Route 11 track from GT1 is here...and it looks as though they've finished construction; the crazy dual-chicane section that burned its way into our nitemares is now a gentrified, pleasant straightway with grandstands of people watching.

• Use sports or semi-racing suspension and sports tires. In the last race, use medium slick tires (T4 i think). You may want fully-modifyable gears in the 2nd and 3rd race for some cars. If the Mitsubishi GTO doesn't appear, your race will be significantly easier.
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Tourist Trophy: Audi TT Race

You shouldn't need any mods to win these, they're so frickin' easy.

It seems the AI here are a group of drivers who just started racing school last week; they generally take turns way too cautiously and brake when they don't need to... but if you get caught in traffic in the midst of them, they'll do their best to piss you off.

You can win this series in a totally stock TT without bothering to qualify, but i used a sports suspension just for the extra manuverability.

Actually, you may want to qualify at Route 11 and Cote d'Azur. The tight corners here make for difficult passing if your Audi has stock power.
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Legend of Silver Arrow. Mercedes Benz

This is the only set of races in which you're guarunteed NOT to net a profit. In fact, open your mind to the fact that you're about to lose serious credits to win these...just like you would in most of the manufacturer's events of GT2.

The CLK55 is recommended here. You can try these in a 2-seat Kompressor, but the cost of engine upgrades will negate any money you save on the Kompressor's cheaper price.

• In the CLK, all you'll need is a sports suspension to get a bit of an edge at Trail Mountain and Rome II. A close-ratio gearbox is recommended but not necessary at these 2 tracks, too. The race at Rome will be tough if you don't qualify. Buy a slew of drivetrain parts (clutch, shaft, limited-slip etc.) if you choose not to qualify to give yourself a slight edge.
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Toyota Vitz Challenge
`

There are 2 types of Vitzes, i recommend the RS 1.5, which costs a little more, but in the long run is cheaper to modify since it has more power + you can win one in the FF series.. The setup below will guarantee a tight race. You might get a bit ahead of the pack if your racing lines are clean and no walls are hit.

• Suggested parts at Rome and Laguna Seca: Weight Redux 1, Stage 1 NA tuning, sports muffler, computer, sports suspension & transmission. Single-plate clutch, 1-way diff. and sports flywheel recommended but not necessary.

• At Tokyo R 246 use all the parts above but add a Stage 1 Turbo. At Trail Mountain and SSR5, remove the computer and sports muffler. Some players may want to go on sports tires for these last 3 races, but i can do them with stock tires.
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Toyota Altezza Challenge

Midfield: @208 hp

Tokyo R246: @227 hp

Deep Forest: @220 hp

SS Route 5: @254 hp

Seattle: @244 hp (Q) 254 (R)


Oddly, these races are incredibly competitive for the Beginner's League + you don't earn much dough. Why are all the other make & model races so easy? I did the Altezza series in a Lexus IS200 and used a combination of Stage 1 turbo, sports, semi-racing, or racing muffler, and computer to acheive the power above but you can use either car, as long as the power falls within the guildelines above.

The Altezza winds up being more cost-effective here, tho it's initially pricier: you'll only need semi-racing muffler, computer, & stage 1 NA tune to acheive what's up above. I also recommend sports suspension in all races and sports tires in all races except Midfield--you can use stock there. A 1.5 LSD is good to limit spins (these cars love to spin in tight corners. Agh) Recommended but not necessary: sports flywheel and single-plate clutch.
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Type R Meeting

P2P= +13.78 all races

Maybe it's me but i found these races extremely easy in a totally stock Honda Integra Type R 98. It was like visiting the Sunday Cup all over again.

• I used a sports suspension & tranny in some races, just for the fun of it, but they weren't necessary. Driving the Civic Type R guarantees the most challenge from the AI at Super Speedway..but the other 4 races will still be easy.
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Evolution Meeting

Laguna Seca: @274

Trail Mountain: @274

Midfield II: @313


These races are a bit more challenging, tho the AI gets incredibly CLUMSY with understeer here and there. :) At Trail Mountain, don't follow any of these drivers too closely, or you'll eventually get caught in a traffic jam (literally) as up to 4 cars at a time can smack against a wall. Use these times as opportunites to slyly slip by them if you can.

• Use stock tires & suspension, and a combination of Stage 1 turbo, sports muffler, and/or computer to attain the hp above, depending on which Lancer you use.
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BEETLE CUP

Rome: 223 hp

Grand Valley: 204 hp

Seattle reverse: 224 hp

Test Track: 213 hp

Cote d'Azur: 224 hp

This series is a bit retarded: why is the competition a bunch of race-modified cars? Unless you're rich, you'll of course be in a normal New Beetle 2.0, not a Cup car. No worries, tho...it's totally possible to win with a New Beetle from the dealership.

• Stage 2 NA tune, sports muffler, computer, sports suspension & tires, and Stage 1 weight reduction needed here if you're not in a Cup car. Use a racing transmission at the Test Track to keep up with the others and medium-slick tires (T4) at Seattle and Cte d'Azur.
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GT World Championship

NDF=No DownForce
DF=DownForce

Route 246 & Super Speedway= 8.82 max hp: 330 (2,300) [NDF] 9.28 (2,700) [DF]

Trail Mountain= 5.58 max hp: 425 (2,300 NDF) 7.97 (2,700 / DF)

Midfield= 6.44 max hp: 387 (2,300 NDF) 7.97 (2,700 DF)

Laguna Seca= 6.26 max hp: 406 (2,300 NDF) 7.97 (2,700 DF)

Seattle & Route 11= 6.44 max: 387 & 372 (2,300 NDF) 9.28 (2,700 DF)

Apricot & Trail reversed= 6.26 max: 390 & 425 (2,300 NDF) 9.28 (2,700 DF)

Grand Valley= 6.26 (Qual) 6.26+ (Race) max: 390 9.28 (2,700 DF)

The final bang! Each of these 10 races pays handsomely at $10,000-> and if you win all of them, you're finally gonna earn some REAL crackola: random prize car AND another $50,000. If this is your 1st time finishing simulation mode, you'll also win yet another Mitsubishi Lancer--keep it if you have to so you can enter the Evo races later on in the Amateurs.

The fancy cars with wings and advertizing you're up against are just a decoy...all you need is something in the 260 to 450 horsepower range, although downforce really comes in handy at tracks like Trail Mountain, Laguna Seca, and Seattle. It is possible to win at such tracks in a regular car without downforce, but not recommended if you're not so good with brakes & cornering. Non-downforce cars will be relying on loads of horsepower after that 2nd race. I did these races in a Viper, and Silvia K's 1800. The Viper had too much power, but i've included P2P ratios up above for the Silvia, which weighed in at 2,294 pounds.

So far as downforce is concerned: I recently did these in a Ford Focus WRC. You won't have to change your power much if you're using downforce. The difference is astounding.

The SuperBacs Toyota MR-S is hands down the tough guy to beat and the C-West Silvia follows in close second. Racing without either of these usually makes for an easier time since all the other cars are rally vehicles (odd).

• So far as tires are concerned, sports are recommended for the 1st 4 races (R246 thru Midfield) if your car has downforce. Try using something a bit stickier (anything from T3 slicks to T7 racing soft) at Laguna Seca and any other races in which you can't slightly edge the MR-S when qualifying. If you're more than a second ahead of the MR-S, change your tires to a harder grade.


 

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