Tsukuba Circuit (10 laps)
(2,000) 7.94 - 252 hp
(2,700) 10.00 - 270 hp
(3,000) 10.34 - 290 hp
Route 246 (6 laps)
(2,000) 7.55 - 265 hp
(2,700) 9.47 - 285 hp
(3,000) 9.83 - 305 hp
Ring Periphery (6 laps)
(2,000) 8.30 - 241 hp
(2,700) 10.23 - 265 hp
(3,000) 10.87 - 275 hp
-Other drivetrain types-
Tsukuba Circuit (10 laps)
(1,000) 7.29 - 137 hp
(2,000) 8.55 - 234 hp
(3,000) 11.37 - 265 hp
(3,500) 12.07 - 290 hp
Route 246 (6 laps)
(1,000) 7.69 - 130 hp
(2,000) 8.93 - 224 hp
(3,000) 10.99- 273 hp
(3,500) 11.86 - 295 hp
Ring Periphery 6 laps)
(1,000) 7.29 - 137 hp
(2,000) 9.10 - 220 hp
(3,000) 11.37 - 264 hp
(3,500) 12.07 - 290 hp
The above ratios include cars that have fairly undramatic handling traits, or have been tuned as such. Cars which have
typical handling problems (excessive fishtailing, understeer, poor maneuverability/sliding issues, etc.) should be avoided.
Find those which have the most stability overall by driving them around Tsukuba a few laps, and then making a judgement call.
Notice there are ratios for front drives (FF) and "other drivetrain types". The "other drivetrain types include front engine/rear-drive
(FR), mid engine/rear-drive (MR), and front engine/all-wheel drive (AWD). I have not experimented with rear-engine cars
*Competent mid-engine sports cars might require an additional 25
horses less, plus maybe a downgrade in tires from medium sports to hards.
Amateur League introduces us to races that start to feel like mini-enduros. More laps, more racing. The Clubman is rated "Level
5", and I have found that Class 5 drivers do okay with the above ratios. But for best results, use a driver who's got more
experience. More experienced drivers are less apt to tire and make mistakes over the long run.
more interesting than the A-spec version of the Clubman, during B-spec we see more scuffling, smoke, and even a few accidents.
All of this makes these longer events more tolerable to watch for those who are getting bored with B-spec.
found during the A-spec Clubman Cup don't always pull like they did during B-spec, which makes our job easier for setting
power ratios. I'm so far not noticing anybody that stands out, mostly because they haven't got TCS on like they did
during A-spec. But keep in mind these better cars can occasionally be ones to watch for, especially if the
driver happens to be a confident one.
The following are the main cars which can make it to the front of the pack,
even if they start behind our driver. This doesn't always mean you should start them behind your driver every time, though.
It all depends how confident and cautious the Ai drivers are...
'02 Ford Focus RS: super-grippy,
the Focus rarely loses traction in corners. The Focus is one of the only front-drives that excells during these races.
Cooper S: A little more clumsy than the Focus, but lighter than many other FFs. The MINI only excells if the
driver happens to be a cautious one who is confident with cornering. Otherwise, it'll tag a lot of walls.
Toyota MR2 GT-S: this MR only does well (again) if the driver happens to be super-cautious. Otherwise, the MR2
will wind up in last place occasionally as it spins out of every tight corner!
'07 Mazda Roadster
RS: the King of the FRs! Super-balanced, lightweight, and grippy, this car does well at all tracks,
but occasionally an over-aggressive driver at the wheel spoils the Mazda's chances for success. You'll notice this right away
at Tsukuba if the driver can't exit this track's hairpins without massively sliding around in a cloud of smoke
'06 Honda S2000: the Honda rarely appears. It generally does well
as a rear-drive, displaying neutral handling with rare upsets. It's not the speediest though, so sometimes it gets dogged
down some straight areas.
Mazda Savannah RX-7s: this car's rotary engine
kicks ass in real-life, and even in the game, the 13B's flexible powerband helps it achieve and excell where most other FRs
fail. It all depends (as usual) who's behind the wheel though. A bad driver will have this car doing spins and donuts.
Crossfire: a bit heavier than the others, the Crossfire has some fat tires and a torquey engine. Therefore,
its grip & traction are at a premium as it lays down the power. Even bad Ai drivers can do well behind the wheel of a
Crossfire. Rarely will this car get upset during cornering. But its weight sometimes keeps it from catching up to the leaders.
Datsun 280Z-L: Actually this is a Nissan in our game, but old habits of mine die hard. Even though
it's older than the others, the 280Z can still trump the others. It seems to have a stability which keeps it only mildly fishtailing
on occasion, unless the driver is really horrible.
Hard Sport tires for those which simply walk over the crowd. Do the first race at Tsukuba. Is
your car dominating to the point of overkill/boredom? Try harder tires for a more dramatic race at Route 246 and Cape Ring.
Fixed or Height-Adjustable Sport Suspension for those that truely need it. Go stock, otherwise.
suspension can be used if you're really trying to get a messy car handling like a gem. These parts are usually
overkill with anything else, though.
Limited-slip device for those that get too squirrely,
easily lose traction etc.
Close-ratio gearbox with assorted drivetrain parts at Tsukuba,
maybe Cape Ring, for some models that need help with acceleration.
Cars used for Ratios:
'95 Honda Civic
SiR-II (lightweight FF/2,000)
'96 Honda Prelude Type S & '90 Mazda RX-7 GT-X (middleweight FF/2,700)
'03 Acura CL 3.2 Type -S (3,000 FF/heavyweight)
'64 Ginetta G4
(flyweight / 1,000)
'97 Mazda MX-5 SR Limited (lightweight / 2,000)
'97 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 (heavyweight/3,500)
European Hot Hatch League
Eiger Nordwand (short track)
(1,800) 9.18 - 196 hp
(2,500) 11.68 - 214 hp
(3,100) 10.54 - 294 hp
(1,800) 9.09 - 198 hp
(2,500) 11.41 - 219 hp
(3,100) 11.92 - 260 hp
The above ratios work best with typical FWD hatches. If some all-wheel drives or rear-drives are used, some
power may need to be removed. Anywhere from 10 to 20 hp, More
power should be removed at Eiger than at Rome, usually.
** I've found that the heavier class cars (3,100
pounds max) will need a huge power spike to be able to accelerate to the front, which explains the reverse ratio at Eiger.
*** When using heavier cars at Eiger, try to find grids that don't have the obvious fastest
cars on the grid. See below in the Opponents listing for these fastest of Ai.
typical, each race is 6 laps. Most of my drivers by now are Level 8 to 11. It's best to use these more highly advanced drivers,
especially at Eiger Norwand, which is the more challenging course. .
Careful when choosing your car. The
Ai is using just over 200 horsepower. Some cars start with nowhere near this, meaning you'll have to spend lots more
money on them to make them successful. In some cases, dumping a lot of money is still a bad idea, especially if it's
looking like we can't approach anywhere near 200 hp after upgrades. So shop carefully.
a shame we don't get to have a standing-start during this race anymore for A-spec. During A-spec, it's difficult
to see one car truely challenge and overcome another. Well, this is not the case for B-spec. Look at them fight!
is (as usual) lots more action, lots more position changes, and even some wicked accidents, especially at Nordwand. These
two races are fun to watch, yet not so long that the viewers (me and you) start getting bored.
Watch for the
MINIs, Peugeot 206s, and BMW 120i. The VW Beetle can also be a surprising enemy
if it starts near pole. Other hot hatch types (Alfa 147, Renault Clio Sport, Volkswagen Lupo, etc.) can also rise
to the front, sometimes.
And there are also those who we know are not very good at being Hot Hatches: Citroen C3, Opel Corsa, and
so on. These can be started on 1st and 2nd if an easier grid is sought.
Hard Sport tires
Fixed Sport Suspension (cars with more serious handling issues can take an
Close Ratio Transmission (5 or 6-speed) for the majority of models. Some older
cars can go stock or full-custom, perhaps, although the few older European models that exist (Autobianchi or Fiat 500
for instance) haven't typically got as much of a chance for success.
Single-plate clutch + Sports flywheel (this
varies per car/track).
''76 Volkswagen Golf GTI (1,800 / lightweight)
'02 MINI Cooper (2,500 / middleweight)
Peugeot 406 Coupe 3.0 V6 (3,100
NR-A Roadster Cup
(2,000) 12.05 - 166 hp
(2,200) 12.64 - 174
(2,400) 13.13 - 182 hp
*The above ratios are best for drivers
who are at least Class 6, but I've used lesser drivers (as green as Class 0) as well. Less power might be needed for those
who are far above Class 6.
There is only one race at one track
here, that being (of course) Tsukuba.
In many cases, this B-spec race can wind up being one of the cheaper ones
to finance. All MX-5s (even the newest Premium model) are cheapies, and it doesn't take much power/parts to get them rolling.
this is one of the easier Amateur level races, this makes a perfect chance for us to break in a third driver. There are
two ways we can attempt this.
1> The Safe Method: It's recommended to take this driver
thru the Sunday Cup or some other such easier races. Take this driver to at least Class 3. Even though the NR-A Roadster
Series requires Level 6 mastery, drivers of lesser experience can be used.
2> The Risky Method:
It is also possible to start a Level 0 driver. This takes more time of course, but it's possible. My
Level 1 driver (L. Wang..;-) made 2nd place on his first try, and aced the Cup on his second.
second method takes a bit of luck along with us shouting at the drivers!
Either way (Safe or Level 0), things don't always
go well. 10 laps is a lot for our young drivers to take on...
Hard Sport Tires
parts (single-plate clutch, flywheel + carbon shaft)
Fixed sport suspension (for some older
Limited-slip device (assuming the driver is a younger one that has a habit of getting a little
too hot out of turns).
Cars used for ratios
'89 Eunos Roadster (2,000, weight reduced + ballast added)
'93 Eunos Roadster V-special II (2,200)
'04 MX-5 Miata 1600 NR-A (2,400, ballast added)
Pick-Up Truck Challenge
(3,500) 7.81 - 448 hp
(5,000) 9.65 - 518 hp
(5,300) 10.15 - 522 hp
above ratios can be used at both tracks. Sometimes though at Daytona, B-spec drivers start doing
really stupid things. Like braking, Go ahead and pile on more power if they start driving like this.
A series of two races, featuring all trucks,
but no SUVs or minivans, even though these are often classified as trucks in real-life.
These are kinda
fun to watch. The drivers tend to get a little more ornery during B-spec.
As per the A-spec version
of these races, the Toyota Tacoma is the main truck your drivers will need to do battle with at Laguna Seca.
Since this race is 6 laps, the Tacoma has a chance to jackrabbit far ahead of everyone else (and it often does). I Guess
that overkilly power isn't so overkilly after all.
It's best to start the Tacoma no higher than 4th place for
the suggested power to work at Laguna Seca. Actually, the farther back on the grid we start those Tacomas, the better. But
it's possible to start them on 4th and have our drivers win somewhat reliably.
At Superspeedway, other trucks
come into play. Silverados, F-150s, SSRs, and Rams can wind up swapping the lead with those Tacomas (which now are running
at their very highest revs as they draft others).
I've found that the same power used in California can also
be used here in Florida, Laguna Seca to Daytona, that is. Stock transmissions are all that's needed in most cases for our
drivers at this oval.
Hard Sport tires
Fixed Sport Suspension for taller trucks (most of the Americans, basically)
Note: I did see one race in which a Ford F150 lost at Daytona over and over again. Finally tried switching to a height-adjustable
suspension, and for some reason, all the sudden it won!
Close-ratio transmission for some models at Laguna Seca. Others can go stock. The Tacoma will
need a full-custom transmission at Daytona
Twin clutch and sports flywheel'03
Toyota Tacoma X-Runner (3,50)
Trucks used for ratios:
'03 Chevrolet SSR (3,800)
Ford F-150 SVT (4,700)
'04 Dodge Ram 1500 (5,300)
Japanese 90's Challenge
Tsukuba (10 laps)
(1,600) 8.69 - 184 hp
(2,000) 9.90 - 202 hp
(2,500) 11.06 - 226 hp
(3,000) 12.71 - 236 hp
Cape Ring (7 laps)
(1,600) 9.36 - 171 hp
(2,000) 11.43 - 175 hp
(2,500) 11.52 - 217 hp
(3,000) 13.33 - 225 hp
Drive, All-Wheel Drive--------------
Tsukuba (10 laps)
10.00 - 200 hp
(2,500) 11.26 - 222 hp
(3,500) 14.11 - 248 hp
Cape Ring (7 laps)
(2,000) 11.69 - 171 hp
(2,500) 11.73 - 213 hp
(3,500) 15.02 - 233 hp
The above ratios can be used for those who are looking for a quick fight. A little less power (5 to 10 hp, maybe more) can
be used if you want to watch a match which possibly lasts the entire race. These lesser-powered races can keep us on the edge
of our seat (cursing at times...but hey....)
I have found that the Toyota MR2 has
a tendency to walk away with the prize at either track, even after docking its power -20 hp, assuming the driver can control
things. So dock more than -20 if you use an MR2, and make sure to pack the grid with lots of good competition
When entering a front-drive car, try to start rear-drives and all-wheel
drives no higher than 3rd place at Tsukuba.
During A-spec, it was
recommended to buy one of the cheaper, low-powered JDM autos from the '90s. Now, we can step this car up a bit in power. Or
perhaps we can use a car which already starts with 190 or 200 horses. That works. Or if you opt, you can find something in-between
like that Civic that's been getting bored in your garage.
Not a lot of skill is needed here for our drivers
to survive. Any Class driver over 9 should be okay, but I've used drives with a rating of just 7. Less-experienced drivers
have a tendency to get more fatigued though, especially at Cape Ring.
One thing that's
a plus about these races is the Ai. They're fun to watch as they spar about, shutting the door on one another, or slyly slipping
by in those hairpins. There are plenty of comical moments at Cape Ring, too. Grids packed with rear-drives tend to start looking
like bad drifting competitions! ...you'll see what I mean.....
In GT4, front-drive and rear-drives
were created equal during the 90's Challenge, which means it was possible to do some interesting races. GT5 takes this
a step furhter. Now it's possible to watch an Integra battle it out with a Supra lap after lap. MR2s,
Skylines and Silvias will not just walk away with every win. PD has done a better job balancing out FFs, FRs, and MRs (in
comparison to GT4). In general, only the best front-drives (like the Integra) can manage to survive lap after lap against
rear and all-wheel drives, but at least they can survive.
Our opponents tend to drive conservatively at Tsukuba
(with occasional upsets), but really start to get wild at Cape Ring. There can be some major accidents and moments
of catastrophe here...our drivers possibly falling to last place one moment, yet suddenly winding up in
3rd if they get past a pile-up. Rear-drive cars spinning out at Cape Ring's weird tighter areas, and front-drives (front-drives
other than Civics, FTOs, and Integras that is) emerging victorious!
Later in the race when all the drivers are tiring,
some front-drives also start having probs...understeering off-track into some grass for instance. You'll also start to see
some of the opponents taking a dash into the pits; not to get tires & fuel, but because they start driving so sloppily
they wind up in the pit road!
Hard Sport tires
Fixed or Height-Adjustable Sport Suspension for those
who need some help. A front-drive against a grid packed with several rear-drives, for instance.
transmission in some cases
Typical drivetrain parts (single-plate clutch, flywheels, and/or carbon driveshaft
for those that need it).
Limited-slip differential for some rare cars, although by now drivers
should be used which don't often get excessively over-eager out of those corners.
'99 Toyota Yaris F (1,600 FF)
'96 Toyota Corolla Levin BZ-R (2,500 FF)
'95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT (2,500 FF)
'95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT & '91 Toyota Celica GT-R (3,000 FF)
'97 Mazda MX-5 SR Limited (2,000 FR)
'96 Nissan 240SX (2,500 FR)
'96 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL (3,200 AWD)
'96 Mitsubishi 3000GT SR (3,500 AWD)
Tous France Championnat
Circuit de la Sarthe (2 laps)
(1,900) 9.26 -
(2,300) 10.85 - 212 hp
(3,100) 13.66 - 227 hp
Circuito de Madrid (6
(1,900) 9.18 - 207 hp
(2,300) 10.09 - 228 hp
(3,100) 12.35 - 251 hp
Level 10 or above drivers do best with the above ratios
The ratios above were designed
mostly with front-drives. Use 10 to 20 hp less if you enter a 4WD, MR, or RR vehicle at Madrid. Even more can be removed at Sarthe,
especially if you're dealing with a large group of front-drives.
French cars only, and most of the entrants in these races are low-powered, ranging from about 170 to just
over 200 horses. We won't necessarily need lots of power for our drivers...in theory.
These races can be fun to
watch, and are not so long that boredom sets in. The money also improves a bit.
as a crystal ball. A wide variety of autos can appear in these (historic to modern...MPVs, sedans, and hatches). But
the main one to worry about will be the Hommell Berlinette. But despite its dominance, it's a mid-engine
car, and this means it can get sloppy occasionally, which keeps the front-drive hatches up to pace with the Hommell.
the front drives. We have the Peugeot 106, 206, and 207 series cars, and Renault
Megane & Clio Sport 2.0. There are other FFs which can keep up with the sport cars as well, but this happens
And on the historic list, we have the '85 Peugeot 205
turbo, and Alpine A110 1600-S. The Alpine 310 1600VE and '80
Renault 5 Turbo can also do well at Madrid, but will fall behind down Sarthe's long straights. Somehow,
they usually manage to catch up though, staying at least 6th place. Both Alpines and the Renault are prone
to occasional clumsiness, no surprises here; they're rear and mid-engined.
Oddly, the Citroen C4 Coupe,
that car which terrorized us and our drivers so during the Beginner Series, rarely does well in the TFC. No idea why.
It's possible to start the faster cars on any position at Sarthe, there's lots of time to catch up, but
for best results try and start the mid and rear-engine cars as far back as possible (unless your driver actually has one of
these mid or rear-engine cars, and can drive it well). And if your driver is still having trouble making a win here,
it might be best to hunt for grids that exclude these faster cars. On the other hand, I've seen some of my drivers get a good
lead early during Lap 1.
Madrid can be one of the toughest courses for our drivers to learn. Unlike
Sarthe, it can take a LOT of scheming for our drivers to even make a single position. Cool-headed drivers do better
that hot-headed ones here, but there are no guarantees. The opponent drivers sometimes also wind up hitting walls and spinning
out, too. Again, it's best to start the fatest ones downfield, but searching out the best grids can take a long time.
Hard Sport tires
suspension (some models may not need this, while older models may need something more advanced than a fixed sport
Full-custom gearbox at Sarthe for some models
or sometimes stock gearing at Madrid (depends on model).
Assorted drivetrain parts. Cars that need lots of help will
require the lightest flywheels with twin clutches, perhaps, especially at Madrid.
for mid or rear-engine machines (or some rare front-drives), assuming the driver can't handle the pressure
used for ratios:
Peugeot 106 S16 (1,900)
Renault Clio Sport 2.0 (2,300)
Peugeot 406 Coupe (3,100)
(1,500) 8.62 - 174 hp
(2,000) 9.09 - 220 hp
11.69 - 248 hp
(1,500) 8.29 - 181 hp
(2,000) 8.69 - 230
(2,900) 10.28 - 282 hp
Some classics (like the Autobianchi and '66 Alfa Romeo Spider)
may need more power. In-game power for an Autobianchi is supposed to be 178, according to the "Possible Opponents" list, yet
I believe these cars have more. So don't feel bad adding it.
We can enter any car for
our drivers, as long as it's Italian. I try to stick to Italy's more modern vehicles. Even though the Ai does well with historic
cars, I haven't had much luck with the '66 Alfa Spider I recently entered. The front-drive Autobianchi kills during A-spec,
but lags during B-spec.
Drivers who are even-tempered (not too hot or cool) tend to do best at London. Hot drivers
tend to tag walls, and cool ones tend to be way too cautious.
As usual, the racing
is different from A-spec to B-spec. One thing which remains the same is the older, classic, historic cars (including the Autobianchi)
are still somewhat quicker thru those turns than more modern autos. The Autobianchi only does well at Rome, though. At London,
it's the rear-drive historics (Alfa Giulia Sprint GTA mostly) that have an edge.
>The Stratos will pretty much
pwn Rome, no question, but if it shows up at London (especially downfield) don't just reset the grid. It has some massive
problems with sliding & fishtailing at this track.
There are some modern cars which can keep up, though, usually
the smaller hatchbacks and coupes like the Alfa 147 series. These do especially well at London if they start on
or near pole.
Hard Sport tires
Fixed Sport Suspension
for some models which need handling help.
Close-ratio transmission for some models with tall gearing,
especially at London.
Assorted drivetrain parts as needed
'65 Alfa Romeo Giulia
Sprint GTA (1,500)
'00 Fiat Ponto HGT Abarth (2,100)
'06 Alfa Romeo 147 2.0 Twin Spark (2,900)
Classic Muscle Car Championship
Autodromo Nationale Monza (6 laps)
7.76 - 335 hp
(3,200) 8.53 - 375 hp
* Starting position does not matter for the cars in these races.
The best cars can be started on or near pole unless the B-spec car being entered is one of the larger, poorer-handling
ones. But sometimes, even this does not make a difference. It all depends how competent our drivers are.
One track/one race, and drivers who are rated in the teens are recommended (at least Class 12).
It is possible to use one of the lighter models from the 1960s, but I've also entered a Charger recently and gave it massive
weight reductions. This also works, but is not as 'safe' as using a Corvette, Camaro, Shelby Mustang (etc.).
This section is similar to the A-spec version of the Classic Muscle race. There are a few which
break away from the pack (Camaros, Mustangs, and Corvettes mostly) and rarely will there be an upset to this. At 6 laps, these
races are fun to watch, and for once there isn't a vast difference between the A-spec and B-spec versions.
most B-spec racing, notice the Ai has always had TCS off, but I'm not sure if this is the case for the CMCC. The major
slides, burnouts, and wrecks found during other B-spec events aren't happening during the CMCC, which is surprising. You'd
expect to see a lot of this stuff during this particular race.
It's a shame PD didn't mess with the gearing of our
opponents. What usually happens is the best cars do wind up jackrabbiting far ahead of everyone else, which
makes for a rather boring race at times. Some may find it cheating that I use and recommend full-custom gearing
during this event, but with the power restrictions above, everything balances out. I personally HATE hearing an engine over-rev.
can choose to use stock gearing (keepin' it real) but you may need to give your car more power, so it will be able to keep
up with the other fastest drivers.
Medium Sport tires
Limited-slip tuning (and other drivetrain tweaks, if needed).
(either one, depends on car)
'65 Shelby Mustang (2,600)
Camaro Z28 (3,200)
Supercar Notalgia Cup
(2,400) 6.20 -
(3,100) 7.21 - 430 hp
Cobra: 466 hp
Suzuka Full Course
6.40 - 400 hp
(3,100) 7.40 - 420 hp
Cobra: 500 hp
6.20 - 387 hp
(3,100) 7.21 - 430 hp
Shelby Cobra: 483 hp
* Lamborghinis are the fastest cars which can possibly show up, with the heavier Ferrari 512BBs also making
the front lines occasionally. Sometimes it helps to start these fastest Italians ahead (not behind) of several slower
cars. Grids with a Miura sitting on Pole or second place are actually ideal, since the Miura driver will quickly start to
drive more conservatively, giving us a shot at an easy overtake later on.
* The ratios above were currently created
using a Countach. I also successfully used a '69 Camaro Z28 with a race kit attached. This car needed about 75 extra horsepower,
though. I also managed to get a Shelby Cobra 427 to finish these. Sometimes the Cobra needs extra power, other times
it'll be okay with what's above.
The Supercar Nostalgia Cup
gives us the ability to choose from a long list of classic cars, but beware. Only those that can handle the pressure should
be employed. So far, I've found that only actual "Supercars" have had success here.
in A-spec, it's the Italian cars which are most dominant, and there are no grids without them. The grids themselves repeat
in a pattern, just like they did during A-spec.
The main difference from A to B-spec is that TCS is off,
and so some cars (especially the lightweight Miuras) do get affected by occasional sliding as they get over-eager out
of turns, but most of the time this doesn't affect their placements much. They still manage to lead the pack at Rome.
Suzuka, it's the heavier, more stable Countachs that generally do best. The Miuras tend to over-extend out of Suzuka's slower
areas, fishtail a bit, and now our driver has a chance to make an easy position.
Hard Sport tires
Full-custom transmission for some cars that over-rev down straight
Assorted drivetrain parts for those that need 'em.
Full-custom suspension for some
cars with difficult handling. (Supercars like the Countach can go stock here).
'74 Lamborghini Countach LP400 (2,400)
'66 Shelby Cobra 427 (2,400)
'69 Chevy Camaro Z28 [R] (2,400)
Ferrari 512 BB (3,100)