'02 MINI ONE: 182 hp
'02 MINI Cooper:
'02 MINI Cooper S: 162 hp
'05 MINI Cooper S: 178 hp
The above Minis have not had weight reduced. Less power might be needed if weight has been reduced.
to the Pro league, B-spec drivers. Here we have a one-make event, just as during A-spec. The difference? While
I breezed thru this one, possibly with restricted power, you guys may have some problems with the learning curve
this tricky track presents.
It might be possible you could take this one with stock power, but I'm allowing you guys
a small boost, just 'cause I don't feel like sitting here all day waiting for y'all to get your act together.
car can be entered, as long as it's made by Rover or MINI. As per the A-spec version, nobody really stands hand 'n' head above
crowd. The Cooper S won't dominate over regular Coopers and ONEs, for instance.
Fixed Sport suspension
Close-ratio transmission (if your MINI winds up with a low or mid-range
turbo system, it might be better to keep the tranny stock).
Single-plate clutch + lighter
Muscle Car Championship
Daytona Road Course (6 laps)
(2,000) 6.53 - 306 hp
(3,000) 7.21 - 416 hp
7.86 - 445 hp
(4,100) 8.28 - 495 hp
Laguna Seca (9 laps)
(2,000) 5.98 - 334 hp
(3,000) 6.59 - 455 hp
- 500 hp
(4,100) 7.88 - 520 hp
*The best of
the best can be started on any position at Daytona, but it's better to start them at least 3rd place at Laguna Seca.
drivers, come alive! No more Mini Madness, now it's time for some more serious power. Bring your American
pride and patriotism, and let's go racin' boys!
Watching this first race at Daytona, I
got a little jealous. Why do they get to do 6 laps but we only get 3? Sigh. It should be the other way
around because (honestly) the Daytona race can be a tad dull to watch, especially if our driver gets an early lead. But if
the driver doesn't get an early lead, the MCC can be a lot of fun. Watching Camaros, Mustangs, Vettes, and Challengers go
head to head up on Daytona's banks never gets old in my book, assuming there's some actual dueling between the drivers.
The race at Laguna Seca can sap our driver's strength below 25%, even if they're fully up past Level 11 as this race
requires. So keep an eye on them. As they tire, they can start making some stupid, noobish mistakes.
first race I did, I entered a '97 Camaro, but (unlike other B-spec events) we can enter even lesser cars than the '97. I'm
noticing some grids include plenty of older muscle cars, which means our drivers can possibly go against these lesser
grids. Just make sure you tune with a full-custom tranny at Daytona especially.
We won't need to micro-manage grids
at Daytona if we enter a competent car. By "competent", I mean something from the '90s, or at least the '88 Chevy Camaro
IROC Concept. If this is so, it's possible to put Vipers, Corvettes, Camaros (etc.) on or near Pole and expect a shot at the
At Laguna Seca, grids may need to be stacked. The worst handling muscle cars, or front-drives, or
those which are known to not be so competitive should be sitting on Pole, 2nd and possibly 3rd place if this is so. Putting
the fastest cars on Pole usually guarantees a losing session.
> The Dodge Neon SRT4 can
be a surprising wild card at either track, assuming it starts on Pole position. I've seen the Neon lead an entire Laguna Seca
race, winning against my 2nd place Camaro.
Soft Sport tires
Brake Balancer for those who need it
Close-ratio transmission for some at Laguna Seca. Some others may need this unit at Daytona,
especially if they have awkwardly tall gear which prevents them from getting some good acceleration.
Full-custom transmission in some cases at Daytona, especially for early muscle cars.
Limited-slip for some models
Assorted drivetrain parts (clutches, flywheels, carbon driveshaft) as
'03 Dodge SRT4 (2,000)
'97 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 (3,000)
'03 Infiniti G35 (3,500)
'07 Dodge Challenger SRT8 (4,100)
High Speed Ring
II (6 laps)
(2,000) 3.98 - 502 hp
(2,500) 4.53 - 552 hp
(2,800) 4.64 - 603 hp
(3,000) 4.69 - 640 hp
(2,500) 4.40 - 568 hp
(2,800) 4.81 - 582 hp
(3,000) 5.00 - 600 hp
(2,500) 3.95 - 632 hp
(2,800) 4.16 - 673 hp
(3,000) 4.43 - 677 hp
Speed Ring II
(2,000) 4.25 -- 470 hp
(2,400) 4.95 - 485 hp
(3,200) 5.49 - 583 hp
(2,000) 3.55 - 564 hp
(2,400) 4.17 - 575 hp
(3,200) 5.34 - 599 hp
(2,000) 3.93 - 508 hp
(2,400) 4.44 - 540 hp
(3,200) 5.22 - 613 hp
* It's possible to find some easy grids for our
drivers to compete with. The above ratios were created with medium-difficulty grids by putting the Group 1 no higher
than 3rd place at High Speed Ring, and 4th place at Nurburgring GP/F.
** Any class can be started
on any position at Daytona.
*** The above ratios were created with plenty of Group 1. Grids packed with only Groups 2 are rare, and may
need power reduced further. Try 50 horsepower less at High Speed Ring and 35
hp less at Nurburgring GP/F.
See the Opponents section below for Groups 1, 2,
Are you ready for some high-paced computer-driver action? So
Choosing a vehicle for our B-spec drivers can sometimes be a daunting task, especially once we get to this super-demanding
set of events. We may be able to drive certain cars (like an R32 era GT-R) well, while our B-spec drivers may falter, falling
far behind for whatever reason. On the other hand, there are certain cars (like the '07 Nissan GT-R) that our drivers can
all-a-sudden dominate the tracks with.
For these reasons, there are two classes to choose from: Supercar and Tuned. If you have any doubt about your entry,
Tuned Class are the ratios you should try first, and if you find your driver is blowing away the AI at High Speed Ring,
try the Supercar class. In some cases, it'll be obvious though that we're giving our drivers a top-notch automobile (like
a Pagani). Supercar will be the one to choose, then. But it can also be hard to predict which autos our drivers
will drive well, and which ones they'll drive too well.
It's best to find a driver who's ready for
the pressure and the glory, and let's give him (or her) a car that can actually move. Something competent. The Ai
sometimes goofs around, entering Jensens, '69 Corvettes, and Aston Martins, but we're gonna want something a lot more
Since there are so many different vehicles which can show up here, lots of
micro-managing can be tried to find that perfect grid. In some cases, we can search super-easy grids packed with heavier,
slower cars. In others, it's okay to find more challenging line-ups.
At all three tracks, the Ai is surprisingly competent
and even docile. At Nurburgring GP/F, for instance, I was expecting to see some accidents, especially in the Veedol
area (turns 14 and 15...the dreaded super-sharp chicane) everybody drives through with confidence, with occasional tire burns the
only issue for them. this isn't to say that pile-ups and such never happen, moments like these are super-rare, though.
Here are Groups 1, 2, and 3, almost exactly as they were during A-spec.
'03 Audi Le Mans Quattro
'02 Cadillac CIEN Concpet
'09 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1
'02 Ferrari Enzo
'92 Jaguar XJ220
any Lamborghini Countach
Lamborghini Miura P400
'02 Lotus Esprit V8
'94 McLaren F1
'00 Nissan R390 GT-1
Pagani Zondas of all types
'87 RUF CTR Yellow Bird
'02 Saleen S7
'00 Tommyykaira ZZII
'01 VW W12 Nardo Concept
1 cars (like the Lamborghini Miura and McLaren F1) will fall behind at Daytona due to short gearing.
'08 Alfa Romeo BC Competizione
any AMG Benz SLR McLarens
'04 Audi R8
Bugatti Veyron 16.4
Callaway Corvette C12
any Chevy Corvette from the C5 generation
'94 Cizetta V16T
any Dodge Viper
'76 Ferrari 512BB
'06 Ferrari 599
'92 Ferrari F40
'09 Ferrari 458 Italia
'06 Ford GT
Gallardo LP 560
'09 Lamborghini Murcielago LP 640
'10 Lexus LFA
'08 Maserati Gran Turismo S
'09 Nissan GT-R Vspec
any Aston Martins
'69 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray
'90 Chevrolet Corvette
'74 Jensen Interceptor Mk III
'00 TVR Cerbera Speed 12
Group 1 are the fastest. Starting them on or
near Pole will make for the most difficult situations. Only if our drivers are driving an actual Group 1 machine should
Group 1 opponents be placed on Pole, 2nd, and/or 3rd place. Otherwise, wins may not be reliable.
during A-spec, Group 2 can be placed on Pole, with Group 1 starting no higher than 3rd or place (or
even lower) if you need to make things easier, yet still witness some drama.
Group 3 will hardly
matter, never wins, and that is that.
Soft Sport tires
Brake Balancer if
Full-custom suspension if needed. Some will only need Sport suspensions, while others
can simply go stock!
Weight reductions for heavyweights. Try and bring your
car to 3,000 pounds and below if it's rear-drive, or 3,200 if it's all-wheel drive.
or full-custom transmission in some cases, especially at Nurburgring GP/F
+ lighter flywheels & carbon shaft (as needed)
Wing or Aero kits in some cases. Full
sports cars (2 seaters) and supercar-types typically won't need anything added by GT Auto, since they often have their
own adjustable wings. Those without such kits might need them.
C8 Laviolette (2,000 -- rear-drive, Supercar Class)
'98 Nissan R390 GT1 (2,400--rear drive, Supercar Class)
'03 BMW M3 GTR (2,500 rear-drive, Tuned Car Class)
'06 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (2,800-rear drive, Tuned Car Class)
'88 Lamborghini Countach (3,000-rear drive, Supercar
'09 Nissan GT-R (3,200-AWD, Tuned Car Class)
Note: The Spyker of the Supercar Class never did win, but came close.
'00 or '03 Lupo Cup Car (includes GTI versions) =
'02 VW Lupo 1.4 = 136 hp
'01 VW Lupo GTI
= 132 hp
* Weight reductions are not used for this event. If you've entered
a car with reduced weight, you'll need even less power than being suggested.
Note: This particular race
is a perfect chance to introduce a new B-spec driver. Usually, this means a 3rd or 4th driver for most of us. Such a
driver may need a couple tries for success though, while a more-experienced driver will usually one-shot the Lupo Cup.
Now we get to watch our B-spec drivers toil for two entire laps around
the big one. Well hey, at least it's a perfect excuse to grab a snack, maybe even a beer. Then we can sit there and wonder....wonder
if Forza players get to experience this much agony. I mean fun.
As you can see, the enemy are
all driving official Cup Cars, but we don't have to find one of these. If you've already got a Lupo from the A-spec race,
it's easy to just modify this and enter the race. Cup Cars can be used, though. As we can see, they'll require slightly less
power than the showroom Lupos.
If you guessed your driver's gonna be up against a bunch of VW
Lupos, you guessed right. If you didn't forsee such a scenario happening, something is wrong. Go back to the Sunday
Cup and start all over again if this is the case.
The Lupo Cup Cars all drive so mildly, which exacerbates the entire
situation, because this means we won't be watching an exciting race. OH, there are those moments when everyone piles up too
closely into the same turn and whatnot, but never will there be a true pile-up or wipeout of multiple cars like I was hoping
for. Oh well.
Hard Sport tires
Fixed Sport Suspension (note:
Cup cars have height-adjustable parts as our minimum choice, not that it makes much diff).
for the 1.4 or GTi versions.
Transmission can be stock, but a full-custom unit can be used if for some
reason your driver isn't getting this one done in less than one shot. Usually by Lap 2, my driver will be far ahead of the
competition, and I'll need to starting goading him or her to keep the speed up. Don't slack-off, stupid driver!
Some Cup Cars only come with full-custom gearing, but their boxes might be set too low for the long
straight portion heading toward Antoniusbuche and beyond. Make sure you address the gearing in these. Cup Cars with a fixed
close-ratio box should be fine as they are.
Japanese 80's Festival
(1,800) 9.73 - 185 hp
(2,100) 11.11 - 189
(2,400) 12.37 - 194 hp
(3,100) 13.84 - 224 hp
Deep Forest II
(1,800) 10.23 - 176 hp
(2,100) 11.47 - 183 hp
- 188 hp
(3,100) 14.55 - 213 hp
The above ratios were
made with both front-drives, rear-drives, and a smattering of all-wheelers too. Drivetrain doesn't make much of a difference
in these medium-low hp cars, but a driver type (hot versus cool) can. See below.
go back to the '80s everyone! At 10 laps a pop, looks like we're in for some mini-endurances, and I have found
that sometimes, all 10 laps can require our attention.
Some of the A.i. happens to drive very persistently without
messing things up, especially at Autumn Ring where passing zones are strict. And this means there are races in which we'll
be watching our drivers have trouble making that ultimate move, lap after lap. Adding horsepower will not necessarily
solve this sort of situation, which can get frustrating!
There are also races I've seen that see our drivers
to the front with seemingly little effort. Here's my theory on why this happens.
Drivers with experience
deep into the teens are most recommended. These sorts will not tire as easily from Lap 1 to 10. I'm finding that
hot-headed drivers do better than cool-headed ones at Autumn Ring, since it's the hothead who will often
take that chance which a cool-headed driver will chicken out from.
...The opposite is true at Deep Forest, where hotheads
can wind up making more mistakes if we're not careful in directing their cornering moves.
these events are low-powered, take the time to tune. Pay attention to what your driver is having to deal
with, and try to address these situations. I recently entered an '83 CR-X, and had to give the driver (N. Huff) a mildly-tuned
sport suspension and limited-slip at Deep Forest. The guy had some problems: N. Huff kept not attacking his throttle
at this particular track. I discovered why: turns out he was trying to do so, but wheelspin out of the tighter areas kept
him from using more gas.
B-spec drivers often freak out if any abberant behavior (behavior we can tolerate) starts
to show up. A limited slip tuned like so: 5-13-22 solved this. It also got rid of a rear-end jiggle the CR-X
would display while trail-braking. Again, it was this wiggle that was making my driver freak out, and not get back on his
gas as quickly.
As per A-spec,
nobody really seems to shine over anybody else, not that I've seen so far. Front drives, rear-drives, and all-wheel drives
each take turns playing at the top, with the actual sports cars having an edge over others at times. The "actual sports
cars" include Skylines, RX-7s, MX-5s, and MR2s, with the Corolla/Trueno an occasional sleeper.
But beware: nothing is written in stone. I've seen such non-obvious types as the '83 Honda City put up a good fight
on the front lines!
One thing that's missing (compared to some earlier GT5 B-spec races)
is that sense of extreme desperation. The Ai seems configured down a notch or two on the excitement-meter now, which
means there aren't as many opponent drivers getting wild (sliding, spinning, leaving pavement...) as there were during the Beginner
and Amateur League.
Parts & Services:
Soft comfort tires
gearing for some at Autumn Ring.
Sport suspension (fixed or adjustable). Some cars may be
able to go stock here.
Drivetrain parts as needed.
'83 Honda CR-X Sport 1.5i (1,800 pounds,
'88 Nissan EXA Canopy (2,100 pounds, FF)
'83 Toyota Corolla GT-Apex (2,100 pounds, FR)
'88 Honda Accord
Coupe (2,400 pounds, FF)
'88 Nissan Silvia Q's 1.8 (2,400 pounds FR)
'83 Nissan 280ZX (3,100 pounds, FR)
'88 Countach 25th Ann. Edition:
'08 Gallardo LP 560-4: 596 hp + Stg. 1 Wgt reduction
Lamborghini Aventador: 671 hp
6 laps of high-paced action.
After sitting there watching 20 laps (or more) of the 1980's cup, switching to the Lamborghini Exclusive is like going
from an average game of golf (...yawn..) to an action-packed game of soccer.
Other than soft tires,
I have chosen not to tweak the car currently used in the event (the Aventador) because this race still presented lots of challenge
for my driver as-is. Despite the 670+ horsepower in that car, it took almost 5 laps before the Aventador (driven by a cool-headed
driver named Gini Martini) made its way to the front. Those will lesser power (like the Countach I recently let S. Wu take)
will need some extra tuning and parts.
I can offer here is try to find grids with as few Miuras as possible. The Miura is the one to watch for, so if one of these
gets a strong lead early, this is okay because it will eventually start to drive conservatively. If more than one is up there,
they will begin to compete with one another, and can be very hard to even catch up to. Dang orange bastards.
Soft Sport tires
Suspension can vary. Most will need one of the sport
suspensions, but some can go factory-stock.
Close ratio-gearing for some
Limited-slip tuning for some. If you're using the same Lamborghini from the A-spec race, you
can actually beta test the car for B-spec by experimenting with LSD tuning, giving them a car that'll be easier for them to
drive. In some cases though, LSD can hurt rather than help.
British Lightweight Series
(1,500) 6.98 - 215 hp
7.11 - 224 hp
(2,500) 6.84 - 365 hp
Top Gear Test Track
7.65 - 196 hp
(1,600) 7.80 - 205 hp
(2,500) 7.10 - 352 hp
The best opponents
(see below) can be started on any position with the ratios above, assuming your car is on the lighter end of the scale (Elise).
Heavier cars should have lesser cars up front, if possible. Try to find grids which don't have a lot of Elises sitting up
British cars below 1,200 kg (2,645 pounds) are what's needed here.
Notice that we can't equip anything better than soft comfort tires. This is bizarre, considering the pace
these races require, especially since the AI has usually been shod with Sports, even way back in the Beginner Series.
What this means is we're gonna have to fight fire with fire. That Spitfire or Elan that was used during A-spec won't
cut it in the hands of S. Wu. or D. Schumacher :-)
I tried entering a TVR Tamora for instance, and no matter
how much power was being used, my driver could not eke a win. I finally took the Tamora for a test drive and found the problem.
It's those damn tires! The Tamora understeered heavily, to the point that it was nearly undriveable without massive braking
distances. So the car for us to choose will probably have an MR drivetrain, since these understeer the least (with these
I have played it safe with the ratios. They will allow our drivers to get to the fore by at least Lap
4, possibly earlier. Go ahead and use less power if you desire, but these are tough events. Even 10 horses less can possibly
make things very tough for our virtual drivers.
As in the A-spec version,
the Elises tend to do better than the rest, but they also screw up massively at times with the sliding, wall-slams, and
spins. B-spec is a little more dramatic in this regard then A-spec is, but only slightly more.
Full-custom suspension (playing with toe especially can help a lot). Cars with
super-neutral handling can go with a sport suspension, perhaps.
Close-ratio transmission for those
with tall gears.
Drivetrain parts (clutch, flywheel, shaft, LSD) as needed. Some cars will drive worse with limited-slip
devices, so beware. If your driver starts sliding all over the place, LSD might be to blame.
Full-custom transmission for those who need a desperate fit.
Lotus Elise (1,500)
'96 Lotus Elise (1,600)
'88 Lotus Esprit Turbo (2,500)
F40: 532 hp + Stage 1 Weight and Glass
BB: 549 hp + Stage 2 and Glass
599: 615 + Stage 2 Weight Reduction
California*: 590 hp + Stg. 2, Glass, and, Hood Wgt. Reductions
F430: 560 hp + Stg. 1 & Glass
manufacturer, one track, but 6 laps.
First time one of mine tried the Cavallino, I gave him a mediumly-modified California
to compete with. This is the car that can be won from A-spec version of Cavallino. It required not just power, but also
reduced weight to win, and I have put the results of my experiments above.
It is pertinent that we tune
and drive any lesser cars (like the California or 512BB) after tuning to make sure we're giving "Bob" a car which handles
With 6 laps instead of 3, turns out there is really only one villian to watch for: the
Enzo. Enzos tend to get way ahead of the rest of the pack; others found in the Supercar Fest Group 1 do not
shine as brightly for some reason. So keep those Enzos off Pole, or use even more power/less weight than I'm suggesting. And
the most important rule: try to find grids that only feature one Enzo, rather than two. This way if the one
gets up to the front, it won't have anybody else urging it to drive faster, other than one of ours. Yeah, take that, you overpriced, Eurotrash
Good news is that everybody tends to behave in these races, Enzo or not. Everybody's a gentleman,
Soft Sport Tires
Close-ratio transmission if needed.
Some Ferraris have gearboxes that'll send them to the Moon. We won't be needing gears this tall.
as needed. Some Gp2 machines will need a limited-slip.
Fixed or Height-adjustable
sport suspension, especially for some models located in the Supercar Fest Group 2.
Gran Turismo World Champion
Circuit de la Sarthe & Nürburgring
(2,200) 4.21 - 522
(2,500) 4.59 - 545 hp
Madrid, Cape Ring, & Grand Valley (see below)
(2,200) 4.09 - 538 hp
4.25 - 565 hp
I am finding that the same ratios can be used at all tracks if your car does well at those first tracks, but is not dominating
to the point of boredom. If your car is struggling early, there's no way it'll be able to pick up points during the three
latter tracks, so some extra power is in order.
The above ratios have been calculated to include more than one jackrabbit on the grid (see the list
in the Opponents section below). Unlike A-spec, during B-spec we don't have a choice to find jackrabbit-less grids,
so the main factor to choose from is how many of these faster cars are included. If only one is included (let's say
the Zonda LM), it will quickly make its way to the front, but then it will go into 'conserve' mode, meaning it will slow its
pace down, making it easy prey. If more than one of these is included (let's say both Ford GT LMs) these folks will compete
with one another, making them harder to catch & pass.
If only one faster car is included, rather than two or more, remove 20 to 40 horses.
Aerodynamics also are important. Those with better aerodynamics (at least 35 front or higher, which includes most Touring
Cars, LMs, and such) should get less power t than those with weaker aerodynamics (as low as 20). I personally would not even
choose to enter anything with less than 20.
I am guessing that those with lesser aerodynamics (20) should be given somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 to 50 hp more than those with better aerodynamics.
for Bob's turn. Or Betty's turn. To try to be the best in his or her virtual world.
Unlike A-spec, it's
best to choose an actual racing car to compete. A showroom model like the Mustang or GT-R I drove during
A-spec just won't cut it now. We can choose one of the many machines that appears in the series, or we can think outside
this box. There are a lot of cars I'm noticing that might be able to take these on, and they don't necessarily appear
in the series.
Drivers deep into the teens are recommended, of course. They'll need to have a lot of stamina
for these higher-paced events. Drivers who barely broke a sweat during La Festa Cavallino and the Supercar Fest will now have
their strength tested all over again.
Make sure you drive the car yourself, too, at one of
the bumpy tracks, and at one of the mirror-smooth ones. Get it tuned in such a way that it will be easy for your driver to
pilot. If the car is getting too affected by bumps, for instance, this is something our driver is also going to be dealing
with. Do something about it!
The same enemies which dominated during A-spec also do
so during B-spec. Despite this, some of them start driving really badly as the laps continue, and their strength and mental
strength start to falter, but some others drive great the entire time. The main diff (as mentioned) is they don't drive as
well from Lap 1 thru X like they did when we raced against them. And if they (or any other opponent) gets a sizable lead,
they still will display their habit of driving more conservatively, giving us a chance to catch up to them as we goad our
Here's two lists: one including moderns, the other including historics.
Pagani Zonda LM
'01 McLaren BMW F1 GTR
Ford GT LM
Ford GT LM Spec II
'00 Dodge Viper GTS Team Oreca
Audi R8 LMS (starting on pole, or near it)
GT by Citroen
any Honda NSX (starting near pole, especially)
'70 Chaparral 2J
'67 Ford GT40 Mk.IV
'67 Ferrari 330 P4
'69 Ford GT40
The best strategy for the most excitement is to include an NSX (or two) or an Audi R8 on or near pole. Then include some
of the top moderns further back. I really hate including the last five cars (the older ones) at all, personally. It
kinda kills immersion IMO to see ancient machinery blowing away cars much more modern, but sometimes these
guys don't handle their cars as well as modern car-drivers do.
Full Aerodynamics, with frontal spoiler no lower than 20
Full-custom everything else.
'XX Mazda RX-7 Touring Car (2,200 pounds)
''06 Xanavi Nismo Z (2,500 pounds)