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GT5 Amateur Series (B-spec)

Clubman Cup

Level: 5

participants: 12

-Front Engine/Front-Drive-

Tsukuba Circuit (10 laps)
(2,000) 7.35 - 272 hp
(2,700) 9.31 - 290 hp
(3,000) 9.67 - 310 hp
(3,500) 10.70 - 327 hp

Tokyo Route 246 (6 laps)
(2,000) 7.55 - 265 hp
(2,700) 9.47 - 285 hp
(3,000) 9.83 - 305 hp
(3,500) 10.87 - 322 hp  

Cape Ring Periphery (6 laps)
(2,000) 8.30 -  241 hp
(2,700) 10.23 - 265 hp
(3,000) 10.87 - 275 hp
(3,500) 11.91 - 294 hp  
-Other drivetrain types-

Tsukuba Circuit (10 laps)
(1,000) 7.29 - 137 hp
(2,000) 8.55 -  234 hp
(3,000) 11.37 - 265 hp
(3,500) 12.07 - 290 hp

Tokyo Route 246 (6 laps)
(1,000) 7.69 - 130 hp
(2,000) 8.93 -  224 hp
(3,000) 10.99- 273 hp
(3,500) 11.86 - 295 hp

Cape Ring Periphery 6 laps)
(1,000) 7.29 - 137 hp
(2,000) 9.10 - 220 hp
(3,000) 11.37 - 264 hp
(3,500) 12.07 - 290 hp

* The above ratios include cars that have fairly undramatic handling traits, or have been tuned as such. Cars which have typical handling problems (excessive fishtailing, understeer, poor maneuverability/sliding issues, etc.) should be avoided. Find those which have the most stability overall by driving them around Tsukuba a few laps, and then making a judgement call.

* Notice there are ratios for front drives (FF) and "other drivetrain types". The "other drivetrain types include front engine/rear-drive (FR), mid engine/rear-drive (MR), and front engine/all-wheel drive (AWD). I have not experimented with rear-engine cars yet.
*Competent mid-engine sports cars might require 25 to 70 horses less, maybe a downgrade in tires from medium sports to hards. The Lotus Elise is an example of a MR car which requires 70 removed. Sometimes these sort of sports cars are difficult to balance though, and even with max power removed they're still defeating too easily!      

The Amateur League introduces us to races that start to feel like mini-enduros. More laps, more racing. The Clubman is rated "Level 5", and I have found that Class 5 drivers do okay with the above ratios. But for best results, use a driver who's got more experience. More experienced drivers are less apt to tire and make mistakes over the long run.  

Far more interesting than the A-spec version of the Clubman, during B-spec we see more scuffling, smoke, and even a few accidents. All of this makes these longer events more tolerable to watch for those who are getting bored with B-spec.

The "jackrabbits" found during the A-spec Clubman Cup don't always pull like they did during B-spec, which makes our job easier for setting power ratios. I'm so far not noticing anybody that stands out, mostly because they haven't  got TCS on like they did during A-spec. But keep in mind these better cars can occasionally be ones to watch for, especially if the driver happens to be a confident one. 

The following are the main cars which can make it to the front of the pack, even if they start behind our driver. This doesn't always mean you should start them behind your driver every time, though. It all depends how confident and cautious the Ai drivers are...

'02 Ford Focus RS: super-grippy, the Focus rarely loses traction in corners. The Focus is one of the only front-drives that excells during these races.

MINI Cooper S: A little more clumsy than the Focus, but lighter than many other FFs. The MINI only excells if the driver happens to be a cautious one who is confident with cornering. Otherwise, it'll tag a lot of walls.   

'97 Toyota MR2 GT-S: this MR only does well (again) if the driver happens to be super-cautious. Otherwise, the MR2 will wind up in last place occasionally as it spins out of every tight corner! 

'07 Mazda Roadster RS: the King of the FRs! Super-balanced, lightweight, and grippy, this car does well at all tracks, but occasionally an over-aggressive driver at the wheel spoils the Mazda's chances for success. You'll notice this right away at Tsukuba if the driver can't exit this track's hairpins without massively sliding around in a cloud of smoke
'06 Honda S2000: the Honda rarely appears. It generally does well as a rear-drive, displaying neutral handling with rare upsets. It's not the speediest though, so sometimes it gets dogged down some straight areas.    

Mazda Savannah RX-7s: this car's rotary engine kicks ass in real-life, and even in the game, the 13B's flexible powerband helps it achieve and excell where most other FRs fail. It all depends (as usual) who's behind the wheel though. A bad driver will have this car doing spins and donuts.  

Chrysler Crossfire: a bit heavier than the others, the Crossfire has some fat tires and a torquey engine. Therefore, its grip & traction are at a premium as it lays down the power. Even bad Ai drivers can do well behind the wheel of a Crossfire. Rarely will this car get upset during cornering. But its weight sometimes keeps it from catching up to the leaders.

'78 Datsun 280Z-L: Actually this is a Nissan in our game, but old habits of mine die hard. Even though it's older than the others, the 280Z can still trump the others. It seems to have a stability which keeps it only mildly fishtailing on occasion, unless the driver is really horrible.      

Parts used:
Medium Sport tires

Hard Sport tires
for those which simply walk over the crowd. Do the first race at Tsukuba. Is your car dominating to the point of overkill/boredom? Try harder tires for a more dramatic race at Route 246 and Cape Ring.

Fixed or Height-Adjustable Sport Suspension for those that truely need it. Go stock, otherwise.

Full-custom suspension can be used if you're really trying to get a messy car handling like a gem. These parts are usually overkill with anything else, though.   

Limited-slip device for those that get too squirrely, easily lose traction etc.

Close-ratio gearbox with assorted drivetrain parts at Tsukuba, maybe Cape Ring, for some models that need help with acceleration.

Cars used for Ratios:
'95 Honda Civic SiR-II (lightweight FF/2,000)
'96 Honda Prelude Type S & '90 Mazda RX-7 GT-X (middleweight FF/2,700)
'03 Acura CL 3.2 Type -S (3,000 FF/heavyweight)
'10 Volkswagen Scirocco (3,500 FF/overweight)

'64 Ginetta G4                 (flyweight / 1,000)
'97 Mazda MX-5 SR Limited (lightweight / 2,000)
'97 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 (heavyweight/3,500)


European Hot Hatch League

Participants: 10

Level: 5

Eiger Nordwand (short track)
(1,500)  7.77 -  193 hp
(2,500) 11.68 - 214 hp
(3,100) 10.54 - 294 hp

Rome Circuit
(1,500)  8.20 - 183 hp
(2,500) 11.41 - 219 hp
(3,100) 11.92 - 260 hp

* The above ratios work best with typical FWD hatches. If competent all-wheel drives or rear-drives are used, some power may need to be removed. Anywhere from 10 to 60 hp, More power should be removed at Eiger than at Rome, usually, and it also depends where the best competition starts on the grid (near Pole versus downfield).   

** I've found that the heavier class cars (3,100 pounds max) will need a huge power spike to be able to accelerate to the front, which explains the reverse ratio at Eiger

*** When using heavier cars at Eiger, try to find grids that don't have the obvious fastest cars on the grid. See below in the Opponents listing for these fastest of Ai.

As typical, each race is 6 laps. Most of my drivers by now are Level 8 to 11. It's best to use these more highly advanced drivers, especially at Eiger Norwand, which is the more challenging course. .   

Careful when choosing your car. The Ai is using just over 200 horsepower. Some cars start with nowhere near this, meaning you'll have to spend lots more money on them to make them successful. In some cases, dumping a lot of money is still a bad idea, especially if it's looking like we can't approach anywhere near 200 hp after upgrades. So shop carefully.   

It's a shame we don't get to have a standing-start during this race anymore for A-spec. During A-spec, it's difficult to see one car truely challenge and overcome another. Well, this is not the case for B-spec. Look at them fight! 

There is (as usual) lots more action, lots more position changes, and even some wicked accidents, especially at Nordwand. These two races are fun to watch, yet not so long that the viewers (me and you) start getting bored.

Watch for the MINIs, Peugeot 206s, Citroen C4, and BMW 120i. The VW Beetle can also be a surprising enemy if it starts near pole.  Other hot hatch types (Alfa 147, Renault Clio Sport, Volkswagen Lupo, etc.) can also rise to the front, sometimes. 
And there are also those who we know are not very good at being Hot Hatches: Citroen C3, Opel Corsa, and so on. These can be started on 1st and 2nd if an easier grid is sought.   

Hard Sport tires

Fixed Sport Suspension
(cars with more serious handling issues can take an adjustable suspension)

Close Ratio Transmission (5 or 6-speed) for the majority of models. Some older cars can go stock or full-custom, perhaps, although the few older European models that exist (Autobianchi or Fiat 500 for instance) haven't typically got as much of a chance for success. 

Single-plate clutch + Sports flywheel (this varies per car/track). 

Cars used:
'98 Mini Cooper 1.3i     (1,500 / semi-flyweight)
'76 Volkswagen Golf GTI (1,800 / lightweight)
'02 MINI Cooper (2,500 / middleweight)

Peugeot 406 Coupe 3.0 V6 (3,100 / heavyweight)


NR-A Roadster Cup

participants: 12 

Level: 6

(2,000) 12.05 - 166 hp
(2,200) 12.64 - 174 hp
(2,400) 13.13 - 182 hp

*The above ratios are best for drivers who are at least Class 6, but I've used lesser drivers (as green as Class 0) as well. Less power might be needed for those who are far above Class 6.

There is only one race at one track here, that being (of course) Tsukuba.

In many cases, this B-spec race can wind up being one of the cheaper ones to finance. All MX-5s (even the newest Premium model) are cheapies, and it doesn't take much power/parts to get them rolling.

Since this is one of the easier Amateur level races, this makes a perfect chance for us to break in a third driver. There are two ways we can attempt this.

1> The Safe Method: It's recommended to take this driver thru the Sunday Cup or some other such easier races. Take this driver to at least Class 3. Even though the NR-A Roadster Series requires Level 6 mastery, drivers of lesser experience can be used.

2> The Risky Method: It is also possible to start a Level 0 driver. This takes more time of course, but it's possible. My Level 1 driver (L. Wang..;-) made 2nd place on his first try, and aced the Cup on his second.  

The second method takes a bit of luck along with us shouting at the drivers!

Either way (Safe or Level 0), things don't always go well. 10 laps is a lot for our young drivers to take on... 


Parts Needed:
Hard Sport Tires

Close-ratio transmission

Assorted drivetrain parts (single-plate clutch, flywheel + carbon shaft)

Fixed sport suspension (for some older models)

Limited-slip device
(assuming the driver is a younger one that has a habit of getting a little too hot out of turns).

Cars used for ratios
'89 Eunos Roadster (2,000, weight reduced + ballast added)
'93 Eunos Roadster V-special II (2,200)
'04 MX-5 Miata 1600 NR-A  (2,400, ballast added)


Pick-Up Truck Challenge

Participants: 12
Level: 6

(3,500) 7.81 - 448 hp 
(5,000) 9.65 - 518 hp
(5,300) 10.15 - 522 hp

*The above ratios can be used at both tracks. Sometimes though at Daytona, B-spec drivers start doing really stupid things. Like braking, Go ahead and pile on more power if they start driving like this.  

A series of two races, featuring all trucks, but no SUVs or minivans, even though these are often classified as trucks in real-life.  

These are kinda fun to watch. The drivers tend to get a little more ornery during B-spec.

As per the A-spec version of these races, the Toyota Tacoma is the main truck your drivers will need to do battle with at Laguna Seca. Since this race is 6 laps, the Tacoma has a chance to jackrabbit far ahead of everyone else (and it often does). I Guess that overkilly power isn't so overkilly after all.  

It's best to start the Tacoma no higher than 4th place for the suggested power to work at Laguna Seca. Actually, the farther back on the grid we start those Tacomas, the better. But it's possible to start them on 4th and have our drivers win somewhat reliably. 

At Superspeedway, other trucks come into play. Silverados, F-150s, SSRs, and Rams can wind up swapping the lead with those Tacomas (which now are running at their very highest revs as they draft others). 

I've found that the same power used in California can also be used here in Florida, Laguna Seca to Daytona, that is. Stock transmissions are all that's needed in most cases for our drivers at this oval.   

Parts Needed:
Hard Sport tires

Fixed Sport Suspension for taller trucks (most of the Americans, basically) 

Note: I did see one race in which a Ford F150 lost at Daytona over and over again. Finally tried switching to a height-adjustable suspension, and for some reason, all the sudden it won!

Close-ratio transmission for some models at Laguna Seca. Others can go stock. The Tacoma will need a full-custom transmission at Daytona 

Twin clutch and sports flywheel

Trucks used for ratios:
'03 Toyota Tacoma X-Runner (3,50)
'03 Chevrolet SSR (3,800)
'03 Ford F-150 SVT (4,700)
'04 Dodge Ram 1500 (5,300)


Japanese 90's Challenge

participants: 12

Level: 7

-------------------Front Drive----------------------

Tsukuba (10 laps)
(1,600) 8.69 - 184 hp
(2,000) 9.90  - 202 hp
(2,500) 11.06 - 226 hp
(3,000) 12.71 - 236 hp

Cape Ring (7 laps)
(1,600) 9.36 -  171 hp
(2,000) 11.43 - 175 hp
(2,500) 11.52 - 217 hp
(3,000) 13.33 - 225 hp

------------------Rear Drive, All-Wheel Drive--------------

Tsukuba (10 laps)
(2,000) 10.00 - 200 hp
(2,500) 11.26 - 222 hp
(3,500) 14.11 - 248 hp

Cape Ring (7 laps)
(2,000) 11.69 - 171 hp
(2,500) 11.73 - 213 hp
(3,500) 15.02 - 233 hp

* The above ratios can be used for those who are looking for a quick fight. A little less power (5 to 10 hp, maybe more) can be used if you want to watch a match which possibly lasts the entire race. These lesser-powered races can keep us on the edge of our seat (cursing at times...but hey....)  

The Mazda Miata, MX-5, Roadster or Toyota MR2 have a tendency to walk away with the prize at either track, even after docking its power, assuming the driver is capable. Dock -10 for Mazdas, and -20 or more for the MR2. Make sure to pack the grid with lots of good competition up front.

When entering a front-drive car, try to start rear-drives and all-wheel drives no higher than 3rd place at Tsukuba.  

During A-spec, it was recommended to buy one of the cheaper, low-powered JDM autos from the '90s. Now, we can step this car up a bit in power. Or perhaps we can use a car which already starts with 190 or 200 horses. That works. Or if you opt, you can find something in-between like that Civic that's been getting bored in your garage.   

Not a lot of skill is needed here for our drivers to survive. Any Class driver over 9 should be okay, but I've used drives with a rating of just 7. Less-experienced drivers have a tendency to get more fatigued though, especially at Cape Ring.   

One thing that's a plus about these races is the Ai. They're fun to watch as they spar about, shutting the door on one another, or slyly slipping by in those hairpins. There are plenty of comical moments at Cape Ring, too. Grids packed with rear-drives tend to start looking like bad drifting competitions! ...you'll see what I mean..... 

In  GT4, front-drive and rear-drives were created equal during the 90's Challenge, which means it was possible to do some interesting races. GT5 takes this a step furhter. Now it's possible to watch an Integra battle it out with a Supra lap after lap. MR2s, Skylines and Silvias will not just walk away with every win. PD has done a better job balancing out FFs, FRs, and MRs (in comparison to GT4). In general, only the best front-drives (like the Integra) can manage to survive lap after lap against rear and all-wheel drives, but at least they can survive.

Our opponents tend to drive conservatively at Tsukuba (with occasional upsets), but really start to get wild at Cape Ring. There can be some major accidents and moments of catastrophe here...our drivers possibly falling to last place one moment, yet suddenly winding up in 3rd if they get past a pile-up. Rear-drive cars spinning out at Cape Ring's weird tighter areas, and front-drives (front-drives other than Civics, FTOs, and Integras that is) emerging victorious!

Later in the race when all the drivers are tiring, some front-drives also start having probs...understeering off-track into some grass for instance. You'll also start to see some of the opponents taking a dash into the pits; not to get tires & fuel, but because they start driving so sloppily they wind up in the pit road!

Parts Needed:
Hard Sport tires

or Height-Adjustable Sport Suspension for those who need some help. A front-drive against a grid packed with several rear-drives, for instance.  

Close-ratio transmission in some cases

Typical drivetrain parts (single-plate clutch, flywheels, and/or carbon driveshaft for those that need it).

Limited-slip differential for some rare cars, although by now drivers should be used which don't often get excessively over-eager out of those corners.  

Cars used:
'99 Toyota Yaris F (1,600 FF)
'96 Toyota Corolla Levin BZ-R (2,500 FF)
'95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT (2,500 FF)
'95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT & '91 Toyota Celica GT-R (3,000 FF)

'97 Mazda MX-5 SR Limited (2,000 FR)
'96 Nissan 240SX (2,500 FR)
'96 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL (3,200 AWD)
'96 Mitsubishi 3000GT SR (3,500 AWD)  


Tous France Championnat

Participants: 12
Level: 7

Circuit de la Sarthe (2 laps)
(1,900) 9.26 -  205 hp 
(2,300) 10.85  - 212 hp 
(3,100) 13.66 - 227 hp

Circuito de Madrid (6 laps)
(1,900) 9.18 - 207 hp
(2,300) 10.09 - 228 hp
(3,100) 12.35 - 251 hp

Level 10 or above drivers do best with the above ratios

The ratios above were designed mostly with front-drives. Use 10 to 20
 hp less if you enter a 4WD, MR, or RR vehicle at Madrid. Even more can be removed at Sarthe, especially if you're dealing with a large group of front-drives.  

French cars only, and most of the entrants in these races are low-powered, ranging from about 170 to just over 200 horses. We won't necessarily need lots of power for our drivers...in theory.

These races can be fun to watch, and are not so long that boredom sets in. The money also improves a bit.

As predictable as a crystal ball. A wide variety of autos can appear in these (historic to modern...MPVs, sedans, and hatches). But the main one to worry about will be the Hommell Berlinette. But despite its dominance, it's a mid-engine car, and this means it can get sloppy occasionally, which keeps the front-drive hatches up to pace with the Hommell.   

Now the front drives. We have the Peugeot 106, 206, and 207 series cars, and Renault Megane & Clio Sport 2.0. There are other FFs which can keep up with the sport cars as well, but this happens more rarely.

And on the historic list, we have the '85 Peugeot 205 turbo, and Alpine A110 1600-S. The Alpine 310 1600VE and '80 Renault 5 Turbo can also do well at Madrid, but will fall behind down Sarthe's long straights. Somehow, they usually manage to catch up though, staying at least 6th place. Both Alpines and the Renault are prone to occasional clumsiness, no surprises here; they're rear and mid-engined.

Oddly, the Citroen C4 Coupe, that car which terrorized us and our drivers so during the Beginner Series, rarely does well in the TFC. No idea why.

It's possible to start the faster cars on any position at Sarthe, there's lots of time to catch up, but for best results try and start the mid and rear-engine cars as far back as possible (unless your driver actually has one of these mid or rear-engine cars, and can drive it well). And if your driver is still having trouble making a win here, it might be best to hunt for grids that exclude these faster cars. On the other hand, I've seen some of my drivers get a good lead early during Lap 1.   

Madrid can be one of the toughest courses for our drivers to learn. Unlike Sarthe, it can take a LOT of scheming for our drivers to even make a single position. Cool-headed drivers do better that hot-headed ones here, but there are no guarantees. The opponent drivers sometimes also wind up hitting walls and spinning out, too. Again, it's best to start the fatest ones downfield, but searching out the best grids can take a long time.    

Parts Needed
Hard Sport tires

Fixed Sport suspension
(some models may not need this, while older models may need something more advanced than a fixed sport suspension

Full-custom gearbox at Sarthe for some models

Close-ratio gearbox or sometimes stock gearing at Madrid (depends on model).

Assorted drivetrain parts. Cars that need lots of help will require the lightest flywheels with twin clutches, perhaps, especially at Madrid.

Limited-slip differential for mid or rear-engine machines (or some rare front-drives), assuming the driver can't handle the pressure

Cars used for ratios:
Peugeot 106 S16 (1,900)
Renault Clio Sport 2.0 (2,300)
Peugeot 406 Coupe (3,100)


Italia Festiva

participants: 10

Level: 8

Rome Circuit
(1,500) 8.62 - 174 hp
(2,000) 9.09 - 220 hp
(2,900) 11.69 - 248 hp

(1,500) 8.29 - 181 hp
(2,000) 8.69 - 230 hp
(2,900) 10.28 - 282 hp

The ratios above are for the more competent cars we can enter.Some classics (like the Autobianchi and '66 Alfa Romeo Spider) and some modern cars (most Fiats)  may need more power.. Try adding 10 horsepower for these.

Keep in mind, there are a few automobiles which will never win at London, no matter how much power & money get thrown at them!

We can enter any car for our drivers, as long as it's Italian. I try to stick to Italy's more modern vehicles. Even though the Ai does well with historic cars, I haven't had much luck with the '66 Alfa Spider I recently entered. The front-drive Autobianchi kills during A-spec, but lags during B-spec.

Drivers who are even-tempered (not too hot or cool) tend to do best at London. Hot drivers tend to tag walls, and cool ones tend to be way too cautious.   

As usual, the racing is different from A-spec to B-spec. One thing which remains the same is the older, classic, historic cars (including the Autobianchi) are still somewhat quicker thru those turns than more modern autos. The Autobianchi only does well at Rome, though. At London, it's the rear-drive historics (Alfa Giulia Sprint GTA mostly) that have an edge.

>The Stratos will pretty much pwn Rome, no question, but if it shows up at London (especially downfield) don't just reset the grid. It has some massive problems with sliding & fishtailing at this track.

There are some modern cars which can keep up, though, usually the smaller hatchbacks and coupes like the Alfa 147 series. These do especially well at London if they start on or near pole.   

Parts Neeeded:
Hard Sport tires

or Height-Adjustable Sport Suspension for some models which need handling help.

Close-ratio transmission for some models with tall gearing, especially at London. Full-custom transmissions can be tried as a last resort.   

Assorted drivetrain parts as needed

Cars used
'65 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA (1,500) 
'00 Fiat Ponto HGT Abarth (2,100)
'06 Alfa Romeo 147 2.0 Twin Spark (2,900)


Classic Muscle Car Championship

participants: 12

Level: 8

Autodromo Nationale Monza (6 laps)
(2,500) 7.46 - 335 hp
500) 8.75 - 400 hp

* Starting position does not matter for the cars in these races. The best cars can be started on or near pole unless the B-spec car being entered is one of the larger, poorer-handling ones. But sometimes, even this does not make a difference. It all depends how competent our drivers are.

Add 10 horses per each alpha over one, for cars which struggle race after race. In other words, if one Corvette shows (and this is fastest opponent) add nothing. If a Corvette and a Mustang show, add 10. If two Corvettes and a Mustang show, add 20, and so on.    

One track/one race, and drivers who are rated in the teens are recommended (at least Class 12). It is possible to use one of the lighter models from the 1960s, but I've also entered a Charger recently and gave it massive weight reductions. This also works, but is not as 'safe' as using a Corvette, Camaro, Shelby Mustang (etc.).

This section is similar to the A-spec version of the Classic Muscle race. There are a few which break away from the pack (Camaros, Mustangs, and Corvettes mostly) and rarely will there be an upset to this. At 6 laps, these races are fun to watch, and for once there isn't a vast difference between the A-spec and B-spec versions.

For most B-spec racing, notice the Ai has always had TCS off, but I'm not sure if this is the case for the CMCC. The major slides, burnouts, and wrecks found during other B-spec events aren't happening during the CMCC, which is surprising. You'd expect to see a lot of this stuff during this particular race.

It's a shame PD didn't mess with the gearing of our opponents. What usually happens is the best cars do wind up jackrabbiting far ahead of everyone else, which makes for a rather boring race at times. Some may find it cheating that I use and recommend full-custom gearing during this event, but with the power restrictions above, everything balances out. I personally HATE hearing an engine over-rev. 

Medium Sport tires

Full-custom gearbox

Limited-slip tuning
(and other drivetrain tweaks, if needed).

Sports Suspension (either one, depends on car) 

Cars used
'65 Shelby Mustang (2,600)
'69 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 (3,200)
'70 Dodge Charger 400 R/T (3,500)

Supercar Notalgia Cup

participants: 12

Level: 9

Rome Circuit
(2,000) 5.85 - 342 hp
(2,500) 6.36 - 393 hp
(3,100) 7.21 - 430 hp
Shelby Cobra: 466  hp

Suzuka Full Course
(2,000) 5.75 - 348 hp
(2,500) 6.20 - 403 hp
(3,100) 7.40 - 420 hp
Shelby Cobra: 510 hp

Laguna Seca
(2,000) 5.63 - 355 hp   
(2,500) 5.92 - 422 hp
(3,100) 6.97 - 445 hp 

Shelby Cobra: 483 hp 
* Lamborghinis are the fastest cars which can possibly show up, with the heavier Ferrari 512BBs also making the front lines occasionally. Sometimes it helps to start these fastest Italians ahead (not behind) of several slower cars. Grids with a Miura sitting on Pole or second place are actually ideal, since the Miura driver will quickly start to drive more conservatively, giving us a shot at an easy overtake later on.

It is possible to try entering Front Engine / Rear-Drives if their Chassis gets hybrided with a racing car. An example is a '54 Corvette with a '69 Camaro [RM] Chassis. Do the usual math, and then add 5 to 100 horses. Less power for sports cars, and more for muscle, although there are always surprises.

Then again, I recently entered a BMW 2002 with a Mercury Cougar V8 engine. The car actually creamed the crowd while racing on its factory chassis (though full-custom suspension, brakes, and limited-slip, of course).       

The Supercar Nostalgia Cup gives us the ability to choose from a long list of classic cars, but beware. Only those that can handle the pressure should be employed. So far, I've found that only actual "Supercars" (along with an occasional better-handling sports car like the BMW 2002) have had success.

Just like in A-spec, it's the Italian cars which are most dominant, and there are no grids without them. The grids themselves repeat in a pattern, just like they did during A-spec.  

The main difference from A to B-spec is that TCS is off, and so some cars (especially the lightweight Miuras) do get affected by occasional sliding as they get over-eager out of turns, but most of the time this doesn't affect their placements much. They still manage to lead the pack at Rome.

At Suzuka, it's the heavier, more stable Countachs that generally do best. The Miuras tend to over-extend out of Suzuka's slower areas, fishtail a bit, and now our driver has a chance to make an easy position.     

Hard Sport tires

Brake Balancer

Limited-slip differential for some.

Full-custom transmission for some cars that over-rev down straight areas. Set this part for 160 mph or slightly higher (257 km/h).  

Assorted drivetrain parts for those that need 'em.

Full-custom suspension for some cars with difficult handling. (Supercars like the Countach can go stock here).

Cars used:

'73 Lancia Stratos (2,000)
'74 Lamborghini Countach LP400 (2,400)
'66 Shelby Cobra 427 (2,400)
'69 Chevy Camaro Z28 [R] (2,400) 

'76 Ferrari 512 BB (3,100)

'70 Dodge Charger 440 hybrided with '70 Dodge Challenger [RM] Chassis & Suspension (3,100)

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