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Professional Series (B spec)

Mini Challenge

participants: 12 

Level: 10

'98 Mini Cooper 1.3: 167 hp  
'02 MINI ONE: 182 hp 

'02 MINI Cooper: 180 hp
'02 MINI Cooper S: 176 hp
'05 MINI Cooper S: 178 hp
'11 Mini Cooper S Countryman: 186 hp
'11 Mini Cooper S Countryman: 192 hp

* The above Minis have not had weight reduced. Less power might be needed if weight has been reduced.

Welcome to the Pro league, B-spec drivers. Here we have a one-make event, just as during A-spec. The difference?  While I breezed thru this one, possibly with restricted power, you guys may have some problems with the learning curve this tricky track presents.

It might be possible you could take this one with stock power, but I'm allowing you guys a small boost, just 'cause I don't feel like sitting here all day waiting for y'all to get your act together.    

Any car can be entered, as long as it's made by Rover or MINI. As per the A-spec version, nobody really stands hand 'n' head above crowd. The Cooper S won't dominate over regular Coopers and ONEs, for instance.    

Hard Sport tires

Fixed Sport suspension
for most Minis

Height-adjustable suspension for the '98 Cooper 1.3i

Close-ratio transmission
(if your MINI winds up with a low or mid-range turbo system, it might be better to keep the tranny stock).

Full-custom 6-speed for the '98 Cooper 1.3i 
Single-plate clutch + lighter flywheel. Add a limited-slip to the '98 Mini Cooper 1.3i


Muscle Car Championship

participants: 12

Level: 11

Daytona Road Course (6 laps)
(2,000) 6.53 - 306 hp
(3,000) 7.21 - 416 hp
(3,500) 7.86 - 445 hp
100) 8.28 - 495 hp

Laguna Seca (9 laps)
(2,000) 5.98 - 334 hp
(3,000) 6.59 - 455 hp
(3,500) 7.00 - 500 hp
(4,100) 7.88 - 520 hp

*The best of the best can be started on any position at Daytona, but it's better to start them at least 3rd place at Laguna Seca.
* Some boxy, historic muscle cars ('70 Chevrolet Chevelle, '70 Dodge Charger, etc.) may need up to +10 horsepower, against fields full of modern cars.  

Alright drivers, come alive! No more Mini Madness, now it's time for some more serious power. Bring your American pride and patriotism, and let's go racin' boys!


Watching this first race at Daytona, I got a little jealous. Why do they get to do 6 laps but we only get 3? Sigh. It should be the other way around because (honestly) the Daytona race can be a tad dull to watch, especially if our driver gets an early lead. But if the driver doesn't get an early lead, the MCC can be a lot of fun. Watching Camaros, Mustangs, Vettes, and Challengers go head to head up on Daytona's banks never gets old in my book, assuming there's some actual dueling between the drivers.

The race at Laguna Seca can sap our driver's strength below 25%, even if they're fully up past Level 11 as this race requires. So keep an eye on them. As they tire, they can start making some stupid, noobish mistakes.

The first race I did, I entered a '97 Camaro, but (unlike other B-spec events) we can enter even lesser cars than the '97. I'm noticing some grids include plenty of older muscle cars, which means our drivers can possibly go against these lesser grids. Just make sure you tune with a full-custom tranny at Daytona especially.

We won't need to micro-manage grids at Daytona if we enter a competent car. By "competent", I mean something from the '90s, or at least the '88 Chevy Camaro IROC Concept. If this is so, it's possible to put Vipers, Corvettes, Camaros (etc.) on or near Pole and expect a shot at the win.  

At Laguna Seca, grids may need to be stacked. The worst handling muscle cars, or front-drives, or those which are known to not be so competitive should be sitting on Pole, 2nd and possibly 3rd place if this is so. Putting the fastest cars on Pole usually guarantees a losing session.

> The Dodge Neon SRT4 can be a surprising wild card at either track, assuming it starts on Pole position. I've seen the Neon lead an entire Laguna Seca race, winning against my 2nd place Camaro.

Soft Sport tires

Height-adjustable sport suspension

Brake Balancer for those who need it

Close-ratio transmission for some at Laguna Seca. Some others may need this unit at Daytona, especially if they have awkwardly tall gear which prevents them from getting some good acceleration.

 Full-custom transmission in some cases at Daytona, especially for early muscle cars.

Limited-slip for some models

Assorted drivetrain parts (clutches, flywheels, carbon driveshaft) as needed

Cars Used:
'03 Dodge SRT4        (2,000)

'97 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 (3,000)
'03 Infiniti G35 (3,500)
'04 Pontiac GTO (3,500)
'07 Dodge Challenger SRT8 (4,100)


-Supercar Festival Grids *Click Here*

Supercar Festival

participants: 12

Level: 11
-----------------------Supercar Class-------------------

High Speed Ring II
(2,000) 4.25 - 470 hp
(2,500) 4.98 - 512 hp
(3,000) 5.28 - 568 hp
(3,500) 5.60 - 625 hp

Daytona Superspeedway
(2,000) 3.55 - 564 hp
(2,500) 4.32 - 578 hp
(3,000) 5.05 - 594 hp
(3,500) 6,11 - 611 hp

Nurburgring GP/F
(2,000) 3.93 - 508 hp
(2,500) 4.54 - 550 hp
(3,000) 5.00 - 600 hp
(3,500) 5.38 - 650 hp   
------------------------Tuned Class----------------------
High Speed Ring II (6 laps)
(2,000) 3.98 - 502 hp
(2,500) 4.53 - 552 hp
(3,000) 4.69 - 640 hp

Daytona Superspeedway (6 laps)
(2,500) 4.40 - 568 hp
(3,000) 5.00 - 600 hp

Nurburgring GP/F (5 laps)
(2,500) 3.95 - 632 hp
(3,000) 4.43 - 677 hp

* It's possible to find some easy grids for our drivers to compete with. The above ratios were created with medium-difficulty grids by putting the Group 1 no higher than 3rd place at High Speed Ring, and 4th place at Nurburgring GP/F.

** Any class can be started on any position at Daytona.
*** The above ratios were created with plenty of Group 1. Grids packed with only Groups 2 are rare, and may need power reduced further. Try 50 horsepower less at High Speed Ring and 35 hp less at Nurburgring GP/F.   

See the Opponents section below for Groups 1, 2, and 3.

Are you ready for some high-paced computer-driver action? So am I.

Choosing a vehicle for our B-spec drivers can sometimes be a daunting task, especially once we get to this super-demanding set of events. We may be able to drive certain cars (like an R32 era GT-R) well, while our B-spec drivers may falter, falling far behind for whatever reason. On the other hand, there are certain cars (like the '07 Nissan GT-R) that our drivers can all-a-sudden dominate the tracks with.

For these reasons, there are two classes to choose from: Supercar and Tuned. If you have any doubt about your entry, Tuned Class are the ratios you should try first, and if you find your driver is blowing away the AI at High Speed Ring, try the Supercar class. In some cases, it'll be obvious though that we're giving our drivers a top-notch automobile (like a Pagani). Supercar will be the one to choose, then. But it can also be hard to predict which autos our drivers will drive well, and which ones they'll drive too well.

It's best to find a driver who's ready for the pressure and the glory, and let's give him (or her) a car that can actually move. Something competent. The Ai sometimes goofs around, entering Jensens, '69 Corvettes, and Aston Martins, but we're gonna want something a lot more obviously capable.

Since there are so many different vehicles which can show up here, lots of micro-managing can be tried to find that perfect grid. In some cases, we can search super-easy grids packed with heavier, slower cars. In others, it's okay to find more challenging line-ups.

At all three tracks, the Ai is surprisingly competent and even docile. At Nurburgring GP/F, for instance, I was expecting to see some accidents, especially in the Veedol area (turns 14 and 15...the dreaded super-sharp chicane) everybody drives through with confidence, with occasional tire burns the only issue for them. this isn't to say that pile-ups and such never happen, moments like these are super-rare, though.   

Here are Groups 1, 2, and 3, almost exactly as they were during A-spec.  

'03 Audi Le Mans Quattro
'02 Cadillac CIEN Concpet
'09 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1
'02 Ferrari Enzo
'92 Jaguar XJ220
any Lamborghini Countach
'67 Lamborghini Miura P400
'02 Lotus Esprit V8
'94 McLaren F1
'00 Nissan R390 GT-1
Pagani Zondas of all types
'87 RUF CTR Yellow Bird
'02 Saleen S7
'00 Tommyykaira ZZII
'01 VW  W12 Nardo Concept

*some Group 1 cars (like the Lamborghini Miura and McLaren F1) will fall behind at Daytona due to short gearing.

'08 Alfa Romeo BC Competizione
any AMG Benz SLR McLarens
'04 Audi R8
'09 Bugatti Veyron 16.4
Callaway Corvette C12
any Chevy Corvette from the C5 generation
'94 Cizetta V16T
any Dodge Viper
'08 Ferrari California
'76 Ferrari 512BB
'06 Ferrari 599
'92 Ferrari F40
'09 Ferrari 458 Italia
'06 Ford GT
'08 Lamborghini Gallardo LP 560
'09 Lamborghini Murcielago LP 640
'10 Lexus LFA
'08 Maserati Gran Turismo S
'09 Nissan GT-R Vspec

any Aston Martins
'69 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray
'90 Chevrolet Corvette ZR-1
'74 Jensen Interceptor Mk III
'00 TVR Cerbera Speed 12
Group 1 are the fastest. Starting them on or near Pole will make for the most difficult situations. Only if our drivers are driving an actual Group 1 machine should Group 1 opponents be placed on Pole, 2nd, and/or 3rd place. Otherwise, wins may not be reliable.

As during A-spec, Group 2 can be placed on Pole, with Group 1 starting no higher than 3rd or place (or even lower) if you need to make things easier, yet still witness some drama.

Group 3 will hardly matter, never wins, and that is that.  

Soft Sport tires

Brake Balancer
if needed.

Full-custom suspension if needed. Some will only need Sport suspensions, while others can simply go stock!

Weight reductions for heavyweights. Try and bring your car to 3,000 pounds and below if it's rear-drive, or 3,200 if it's all-wheel drive.

Close-ratio or full-custom transmission in some cases, especially at Nurburgring GP/F 

Twin clutch + lighter flywheels & carbon shaft (as needed)

Wing or Aero kits in some cases. Full sports cars (2 seaters) and supercar-types typically won't need anything added by GT Auto, since they often have their own adjustable wings. Those without such kits might need them.   

Cars used:
'01 Spyker C8 Laviolette (2,000 -- rear-drive, Supercar Class)
'98 Nissan R390 GT1 (2,400--rear drive, Supercar Class)

'03 BMW M3 GTR (2,500 rear-drive, Tuned Car Class)

'06 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (2,800-rear drive, Tuned Car Class)
'88 Lamborghini Countach (3,000-rear drive, Supercar Class))

'09 Nissan GT-R (3,200-AWD, Tuned Car Class)

'10 Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG, (3,500, Supercar Class)


Note: The Spyker of the Supercar Class never did win, but came close.


Lupo Cup

participants: 12

Level: 12

'00 or '03 Lupo Cup Car (includes GTI versions)  = 129 hp

'02 VW Lupo 1.4 = 136 hp
'01 VW Lupo GTI = 132 hp

* Weight reductions are not used for this event. If you've entered a car with reduced weight, you'll need even less power than being suggested.

Note: This particular race is a perfect chance to introduce a new B-spec driver. Usually, this means a 3rd or 4th driver for most of us. Such a driver may need a couple tries for success though, while a more-experienced driver will usually one-shot the Lupo Cup.   

Now we get to watch our B-spec drivers toil for two entire laps around the big one. Well hey, at least it's a perfect excuse to grab a snack, maybe even a beer. Then we can sit there and wonder....wonder if Forza players get to experience this much agony. I mean fun.

As you can see, the enemy are all driving official Cup Cars, but we don't have to find one of these. If you've already got a Lupo from the A-spec race, it's easy to just modify this and enter the race. Cup Cars can be used, though. As we can see, they'll require slightly less power than the showroom Lupos.

If you guessed your driver's gonna be up against a bunch of VW Lupos, you guessed right. If you didn't forsee such a scenario happening, something is wrong. Go back to the Sunday Cup and start all over again if this is the case.

The Lupo Cup Cars all drive so mildly, which exacerbates the entire situation, because this means we won't be watching an exciting race. OH, there are those moments when everyone piles up too closely into the same turn and whatnot, but never will there be a true pile-up or wipeout of multiple cars like I was hoping for. Oh well.   

Hard Sport tires

Fixed Sport Suspension
(note: Cup cars have height-adjustable parts as our minimum choice, not that it makes much diff).

Single-plate clutch for the 1.4 or GTi versions.  

Transmission can be stock, but a full-custom unit can be used if for some reason your driver isn't getting this one done in less than one shot. Usually by Lap 2, my driver will be far ahead of the competition, and I'll need to starting goading him or her to keep the speed up. Don't slack-off, stupid driver!
Some Cup Cars only come with full-custom gearing, but their boxes might be set too low for the long straight portion heading toward Antoniusbuche and beyond. Make sure you address the gearing in these. Cup Cars with a fixed close-ratio box should be fine as they are.


Japanese 80's Festival

Level: 12

Participants: 12

Autumn Ring
(1,800) 9.73 - 185 hp
(2,100) 11.11 - 189 hp
(2,400) 12.37 - 194 hp
(3,100) 13.84 - 224 hp

Deep Forest II
(1,800) 10.23 - 176 hp
(2,100) 11.47 - 183 hp
(2,400) 12.76 - 188 hp
(3,100) 14.55 - 213 hp

The above ratios were made with both front-drives, rear-drives, and a smattering of all-wheelers too. Drivetrain doesn't make much of a difference in these medium-low hp cars, but a driver type (hot versus cool) can. See below.

On the other hand, if a Mazda MX-5, Roadster, Toyota MR2, or some other top-alpha sports car is used, make sure plenty of other top talent is on the gird as well.    

Let's go back to the '80s everyone! At 10 laps a pop, looks like we're in for some  mini-endurances, and I have found that sometimes, all 10 laps can require our attention.

Some of the A.i. happens to drive very persistently without messing things up, especially at Autumn Ring where passing zones are strict. And this means there are races in which we'll be watching our drivers have trouble making that ultimate move, lap after lap. Adding horsepower will not necessarily solve this sort of situation, which can get frustrating!  

There are also races I've seen that see our drivers to the front with seemingly little effort. Here's my theory on why this happens.   

Drivers with experience deep into the teens are most recommended. These sorts will not tire as easily from Lap 1 to 10. I'm finding that hot-headed drivers do better than cool-headed ones at Autumn Ring, since it's the hothead who will often take that chance which a cool-headed driver will chicken out from.

...The opposite is true at Deep Forest, where hotheads can wind up making more mistakes if we're not careful in directing their cornering moves. 

Even though these events are low-powered, take the time to tune. Pay attention to what your driver is having to deal with, and try to address these situations. I recently entered an '83 CR-X, and had to give the driver (N. Huff) a mildly-tuned sport suspension and limited-slip at Deep Forest. The guy had some problems: N. Huff kept not attacking his throttle at this particular track. I discovered why: turns out he was trying to do so, but wheelspin out of the tighter areas kept him from using more gas.

B-spec drivers often freak out if any abberant behavior (behavior we can tolerate) starts to show up. A limited slip tuned like so: 5-13-22 solved this. It also got rid of a rear-end jiggle the CR-X would display while trail-braking. Again, it was this wiggle that was making my driver freak out, and not get back on his gas as quickly.           

As per A-spec, nobody really seems to shine over anybody else, not that I've seen so far. Front drives, rear-drives, and all-wheel drives each take turns  playing at the top, with the actual sports cars having an edge over others at times. The "actual sports cars" include Skylines, RX-7s, MX-5s, and MR2s, with the Corolla/Trueno an occasional sleeper. But beware: nothing is written in stone. I've seen such non-obvious types as the '83 Honda City put up a good fight on the front lines!   

One thing that's missing (compared to some earlier GT5 B-spec races) is that sense of extreme desperation. The Ai seems configured down a notch or two on the excitement-meter now, which means there aren't as many opponent drivers getting wild (sliding, spinning, leaving pavement...) as there were during the Beginner and Amateur League.

Parts & Services:
Soft comfort tires

Close-ratio gearing
for some at Autumn Ring.

Sport suspension (fixed or adjustable). Some cars may be able to go stock here.

Drivetrain parts as needed.

Cars used:
'83 Honda CR-X Sport 1.5i (1,800 pounds, FF)

'88 Nissan EXA Canopy (2,100 pounds, FF)
'83 Toyota Corolla GT-Apex (2,100 pounds, FR)

'88 Honda Accord Coupe (2,400 pounds, FF)
'88 Nissan Silvia Q's 1.8 (2,400 pounds FR)
'83 Nissan 280ZX (3,100 pounds, FR)  

Lamborghini Exclusive

Participants: 12

Level: 13

Cars Used
'88 Countach 25th Ann. Edition: 598 hp
'08 Gallardo LP 560-4: 596 hp + Stg. 1 Wgt reduction

'11 Lamborghini Aventador: 671 hp

6 laps of high-paced action. After sitting there watching 20 laps (or more) of the 1980's cup, switching to the Lamborghini Exclusive is like going from an average game of golf (...yawn..) to an action-packed game of soccer.

Other than soft tires, I have chosen not to tweak the car currently used in the event (the Aventador) because this race still presented lots of challenge for my driver as-is. Despite the 670+ horsepower in that car, it took almost 5 laps before the Aventador (driven by a cool-headed driver named Gini Martini) made its way to the front. Those will lesser power (like the Countach I recently let S. Wu take) will need some extra tuning and parts.
Best advice I can offer here is try to find grids with as few Miuras as possible. The Miura is the one to watch for, so if one of these gets a strong lead early, this is okay because it will eventually start to drive conservatively. If more than one is up there, they will begin to compete with one another, and can be very hard to even catch up to. Dang orange bastards.

Parts Used:
Soft Sport tires

Suspension can vary. Most will need one of the sport suspensions, but some can go factory-stock.

Close ratio-gearing for some

Assorted drivetrain parts

Limited-slip tuning for some. If you're using the same Lamborghini from the A-spec race, you can actually beta test the car for B-spec by experimenting with LSD tuning, giving them a car that'll be easier for them to drive. In some cases though, LSD can hurt rather than help.   

Brake balancer


British Lightweight Series

Participants: 12
Level: 13

(1,000) 6.25 - 160 hp
(1,500) 6.98 - 215 hp
(2,500) 6.84 - 365 hp

Top Gear Test Track
(1,000) 7.52 - 133 hp
(1,500) 7.65 - 196 hp
(2,500) 7.10 - 352 hp

The best opponents (see below) can be started on any position with the ratios above, assuming your car is on the lighter end of the scale (Elise). Heavier cars should have lesser cars up front, if possible. Try to find grids which don't have a lot of Elises sitting up front.   

British cars below 1,200 kg (2,645 pounds) are what's needed here. Notice that we can't equip anything better than soft comfort tires. This is bizarre, considering the pace these races require, especially since the AI has usually been shod with Sports, even way back in the Beginner Series. What this means is we're gonna have to fight fire with fire. That Spitfire or Elan that was used during A-spec won't cut it in the hands of S. Wu. or D. Schumacher :-) 

I tried entering a TVR Tamora for instance, and no matter how much power was being used, my driver could not eke a win. I finally took the Tamora for a test drive and found the problem. It's those damn tires! The Tamora understeered heavily, to the point that it was nearly undriveable without massive braking distances. So the car for us to choose will probably have an MR drivetrain, since these understeer the least (with these crap tires).

I have played it safe with the ratios. They will allow our drivers to get to the fore by at least Lap 4, possibly earlier. Go ahead and use less power if you desire, but these are tough events. Even 10 horses less can possibly make things very tough for our virtual drivers.     

As in the A-spec version, the Elises tend to do better than the rest, but they also screw up massively at times with the sliding, wall-slams, and spins. B-spec is a little more dramatic in this regard then A-spec is, but only slightly more.  

Soft Comfort tires

Full-custom suspension (playing with toe especially can help a lot). Cars with more-confident handling, especially MRs, can go with a sport suspension, perhaps.

Close-ratio transmission for those with tall gears.

Drivetrain parts (clutch, flywheel, shaft, LSD) as needed. Some cars will drive worse with limited-slip devices, so beware. If your driver starts sliding all over the place, LSD might be to blame.

Weight reductions, possibly.

Full-custom transmission for those who need a desperate fit.

'02 Caterham Seven Fireblade (1,000)
'00 Lotus Elise (1,500)
'96 Lotus Elise (1,600)
'88 Lotus Esprit Turbo (2,500)


La Festa Cavallino

Participants: 12
Level: 14 

Ferrari F40: 532 hp + Stage 1 Weight and Glass
Ferrari 512 BB: 549 hp + Stage 2 and Glass 
Ferrari 599: 515 + Stage 2 Weight Reduction
Ferrari California*: 590 hp + Stg. 3, Glass and, Hood Wgt. Reductions 
Ferrari F430:    570 hp + Stg. 2 & Glass

One manufacturer, one track, but 6 laps.

First time one of mine tried the Cavallino, I gave him a mediumly-modified California to compete with.  This is the car that can be won from A-spec version of Cavallino. It required not just power, but also reduced weight to win, and I have put the results of my experiments above.   

It is pertinent that we tune and drive any lesser cars (like the California or 512BB) after tuning to make sure we're giving "Bob" a car which handles decently.

With 6 laps instead of 3, turns out there is really only one villian to watch for: the Enzo. Enzos tend to get way ahead of the rest of the pack; others found in the Supercar Fest Group 1 do not shine as brightly for some reason. So use even more power/less weight than I'm suggesting if this is needed. And the most important rule: try to find grids that only feature one Enzo, rather than two. This way if the one gets up to the front, it won't have anybody else urging it to drive faster, other than one of ours. Yeah, take that, you overpriced, Eurotrash poseur.  

Good news is that everybody tends to behave in these races, Enzo or not. Everybody's a gentleman, basically.   

Soft Sport Tires

Close-ratio transmission
if needed. Some Ferraris have gearboxes that'll send them to the Moon. We won't be needing gears this tall.

Drivetrain parts as needed. Some Gp2 machines will need a limited-slip

Fixed or Height-adjustable sport suspension, especially for some models located in the Supercar Fest Group 2.   

Brake Balancer


Gran Turismo World Champion

Participants: 12
Level: 14

Circuit de la Sarthe & Nürburgring
(1,700) 3.48 - 488 hp
(2,000) 3.89 - 513 hp
(2,500) 4.59 - 545 hp

Madrid (see below) 
(1,700) 3.32 - 512 hp
(2,000) 3.79 - 527 hp
(2,500) 4.25 - 565 hp 

Cape Ring, & Grand Valley
(1,700) 3.28 - 518 hp
(2,000) 3.74 - 535 hp
(2,500) 4.35 - 575 hp

I am finding that the same ratios can be used at all tracks if your car does well at those first tracks, but is not dominating to the point of boredom. If your car is struggling early, there's no way it'll be able to pick up points during the three latter tracks, so some extra power is in order.   
The above ratios have been calculated to include more than one jackrabbit on the grid (see the list in the Opponents section below). Unlike A-spec, during B-spec we don't have a choice to find jackrabbit-less grids, so the main factor to choose from is how many of these faster cars are included. If only one is included (let's say the Zonda LM), it will quickly make its way to the front, but then it will go into 'conserve' mode, meaning it will slow its pace down, making it easy prey. If more than one of these is included (let's say both Ford GT LMs) these folks will compete with one another, making them harder to catch & pass.
If only one faster car is included, rather than two or more, remove 20 to 40 horses.     
Aerodynamics also are important. Those with better aerodynamics (at least 35 front or higher, which includes most Touring Cars, LMs, and such) should get less power t than those with weaker aerodynamics (as low as 20). I personally would not even choose to enter anything with less than 20.
 I am guessing that those with lesser aerodynamics (20) should be given somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 to 50 hp more than those with better aerodynamics.  
Now for Bob's turn. Or Betty's turn. To try to be the best in his or her virtual world.   

Unlike A-spec, it's best to choose an actual racing car to compete. A showroom model like the Mustang or GT-R I drove during A-spec just won't cut it now. We can choose one of the many machines that appears in the series, or we can think outside this box. There are a lot of cars I'm noticing that might be able to take these on, and they don't necessarily appear in the series.  

Drivers deep into the teens are recommended, of course. They'll need to have a lot of stamina for these higher-paced events. Drivers who barely broke a sweat during La Festa Cavallino and the Supercar Fest will now have their strength tested all over again.     

Make sure you drive the car yourself, too, at one of the bumpy tracks, and at one of the mirror-smooth ones. Get it tuned in such a way that it will be easy for your driver to pilot. If the car is getting too affected by bumps, for instance, this is something our driver is also going to be dealing with. Do something about it! 

 The same enemies which dominated during A-spec also do so during B-spec. Despite this, some of them start driving really badly as the laps continue, and their strength and mental strength start to falter, but some others drive great the entire time. The main diff (as mentioned) is they don't drive as well from Lap 1 thru X like they did when we raced against them. And if they (or any other opponent) gets a sizable lead, they still will display their habit of driving more conservatively, giving us a chance to catch up to them as we goad our driver.  

Here's two lists: one including moderns, the other including historics.

Pagani Zonda LM
Jaguar XJ220 LM
'01 McLaren BMW F1 GTR
Ford GT LM
Ford GT LM Spec II
'00 Dodge Viper GTS Team Oreca
Audi R8 LMS (starting on pole, or near it)
GT by Citroen
any Honda NSX (starting near pole, especially)

'70 Chaparral 2J
'67 Ford GT40 Mk.IV
'67 Ferrari 330 P4
'66 Jaguar XJ13
'69 Ford GT40
The best strategy for the most excitement is to include an NSX (or two) or an Audi R8 on or near pole. Then include some of the top moderns further back.  I really hate including the last five cars (the older ones) at all, personally. It kinda kills immersion IMO to see ancient machinery blowing away cars much more modern, but sometimes these guys don't handle their cars as well as modern car-drivers do.     

Hard racing tires...
Full Aerodynamics, with frontal spoiler no lower than 20

Full-custom everything else.

Cars used
'92 Peugeot 905
Mazda RX-7 Touring Car (2,200 pounds)
'06 Xanavi Nismo Z (2,500 pounds)
'99 Lister Storm V12 (3,200 pounds)

GT5 World Championship Grids CLICK HERE

Back to GT5 Racing Guide B-spec links

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